Annapurna III | 1988 E Ridge from S

A UK expedition to Annapurna III in 1988 via E Ridge from S, led by Malcolm Duff. Summit reached on 3rd October 1988. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 844
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN388301
Peak ID ANN3
Year 1988
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge from S
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Malcolm Duff
Sponsor British Annapurna III Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-09-11
Summit Date 1988-10-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 22
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6450m due to bad weather coming and time running out
High Point (m) 6450
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 1
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/09,3350m),ABC(17/09,4600m),Biv1(29/09,5000m),Biv2(30/09,6100m),Biv3(01/10,6100m),Biv4(02/10,6100m),Biv5(03/10,6450m),xxx(03/10,6450m)
Route Notes BC northeast of Machhapuchure ABC south-southwest of Annapurna III on moraine Biv 1 at bottom of a spur Biv 3 on horizontal ridge SE Ridge Biv 4 on horizontal ridge SE Ridge Biv 5 at bottom of SE Ridge-Face (high point). Alpine-style climb ABC started on 29th Sept with Cave, Perkins, Tattersall and Duff to 1st biv. On 2nd day only Cave and Duff went on up while other 2 down because of altitude problems. Duff & Cave down to ABC on 3rd Oct because big storm approaching; storm brought snow & wind. Now Cave & Duff had not enough time left. Other 2 not happy with the very long East Ridge with no interesting climbing involved. There were a lot of avalanches that nearly hit Fairley. * Cook died on approach to BC of cold that suddenly became pulmonary edema (he died during night of 10/11 Sept). Letter from Malcolm Duff - 11 Nov 1988 You may well have heard that our cook died of HAPE at 13,500 ft on the walk-in. The first party suffered appalling conditions and at this spot decided to send down 14 porters who were likely to die from exposure. 8 other porters (superstars) were pitted out in expedition equipment and stayed in the group to help in the final 1-day ferry to BC. The previous section of the route in is absolutely desperate (2 loads were dropped into a gorge directly below). Clearly evacuating of anybody by land is out of the question. They had established BC on 10th (or at least some gear got there) when the cook who had responded to treatment by drugs, suddenly became worse and died approx midnight.
Accidents Cook died on approach to BC
Achievement -
Agency Rover Treks
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452486
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge from s

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Andrew (Andy) Cave M 1966 UK Climber Barnsley, S Yorkshire, England Student, alpine guide & demolition worker Details Other expeditions
Malcolm (Mal) Duff M 1953 UK Leader Culross, Fife, Scotland Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Robert E. (Rob) Fairley M 1953 UK Climber Fort William, Inverness, Scotland Artist (painter) Details Other expeditions
Andrew (Andy) Perkins M 1960 UK Climber Mossley, Lancashire, England Rescue instructor Details Other expeditions
Ian Tattersall M 1950 UK Exp Doctor Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, England Physician Details Other expeditions
Unknown M - Nepal Cook - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN388301 AAJ - - - 63:215-216 (1989) -
ANN388301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198921500/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-III-Attempt - - -