Annapurna III | 1983 E Ridge (for acclim)

A UK expedition to Annapurna III in 1983 via E Ridge (for acclim), led by Nikola Kekus. Summit reached on 8th October 1983. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 121
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN383301
Peak ID ANN3
Year 1983
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 E Ridge (for acclim)
Route 2 SE Pillar
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Nikola Kekus
Sponsor British Annapurna III Expedition 1983
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Seti Khola->BC
Basecamp Date 1983-09-05
Summit Date 1983-10-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 33
Total Days 45
Termination Date 1983-10-20
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to fatal accident
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(05/09,3500m),ABC(11/09,4500m),Snowhole1(28/09,6100m),Snowhole2(06/10,6150m),xxx(08/10,6300m)
Route Notes On 10 Oct started descent, came to bergschrund at about 6300m and went into crevasse here in very bad weather (white-out) and avalanches coming down mountain (1 buried both men and turning point in Uttley's health - middle night of 11th). 13th wind but clear and Pilling able get out but Uttley not. Left him with 5 days food and some fuel and met others at ABC on 14th. Very slow downwards because snow so deep and upwards movement even (on this frozen cover) and Pilling shattered. Again weather turned bad with avalanches and no actual effort made to go up. Uttley's condition when Pilling left was so bad he probably would just sink away. Pillar Ok but need period of 10 days. Were going halfway East Ridge as acclimatization and to put in snowholes with supplies in case needed to descend this way. Then would make ascent via SE Ridge Pillar. After Uttley accident never made try for Pillar. Shrestha, Tourism - 26 Nov 83 Leader's reports death of Robert G. Uttley, born 1961, geology student, Sheffield, on approx 14 Oct due to pneumonia and related illness at 6300m on East Ridge of Annapurna III. He was accompanied by Trevor Pilling, born 1956, student, Worcester. The 2 men were caught in 5-day storm at this alitude (6300m). "Uttley's condition gradually deteriorating to state where he was unable to function and even attempt retreat without further assistance of more members. Eventually on 13 Oct Trevor Pilling had to retreat in order to save his own life. Attempts to conduct a rescue were useless as the weather conditions were very bad (new snow) and this may have endangered further life." All 4 members had reached altitude 6150m, but 2 numbers, Uttley and Pilling had reached 6300m on 8 Oct. In evening of 8 Oct weather broke and they tried to descend but due to heavy snowfall and wind they could not come down, they were in a crevasse at that altitude. It was decided to abandon expedition on 18 Oct and left BC on 20 Oct and arrive KTM 26 Oct (today). BC 3500m 5 Sept ABC 4500m 11 Sept C2 snowhole on East Ridge 6100m 28 Sept Next snowhole on East Ridge 6150m 3 Oct Kekus and Jonathan Tinker (born 1959, laborer, leader) were at ABC during storm and tried to go up to rescue "but because of continuous bad weather they could not go up." All 3 survivors are well.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450659
Year 1983
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) e ridge (for acclim)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nikola (Nick) Kekus M 1957 UK Leader Leeds, W Yorkshire, England Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Trevor James Pilling M 1956 UK Climber Worcester, England Just finished studies in biology & physical education Details Other expeditions
Jonathan (Jon) Tinker M 1959 UK Climber London, England Unemployed labourer Details Other expeditions
Robert Grant Uttley M 1962 UK Climber Todmorden, Lancashire, England Just finished studies in geology Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN383301 AAJ Kekus, Nikola - - 58:254-255 (1984) -
ANN383301 HJ Kekus, N. Annapurna III - 41:149-151 (1983-1984) -
ANN383301 MM - - - 96:11 (Mar 1984) -
ANN383301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198425402/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-III - - -
ANN383301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/41/21/expeditions-and-notes-41/ - - -