Annapurna III | 1980 N Face-E Ridge up; NE Face down

A Switzerland expedition to Annapurna III in 1980 via N Face-E Ridge up; NE Face down, led by Denis Bertholet. Summit reached on 15th October 1980. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1890
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN380301
Peak ID ANN3
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-E Ridge up; NE Face down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Switzerland
Leaders Denis Bertholet
Sponsor Swiss Expedition to Annapurna III 1980
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 6th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dumre->Marshyandgi->Braga
Basecamp Date 1980-09-29
Summit Date 1980-10-15
Summit Time 1600
Summit Days 16
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7555
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed East Summit of Annapurna III (Bertholet, Gailland, Polli) (1st ascent)
Campsites BC(29/09,4000m),C1(5400m),C2(6100m),C3(12/10,6700m),Smt(15/10)
Route Notes Dr. Pfefferle - 31 Oct 80 Arrive BC after 9 days trek so BC at 4000m 29 Sept. C1 5400m C2 6700m - 12 Oct Summit - 15 Oct 4 pm by Rieben & Temba 15 Oct very windy; started 7:00 am and on top 4 pm; too windy to sleep on ridge and must go to C3 very tired but successful at 11 pm. Route to left of Indian route; went very close to East Ridge East Summit (about 6900m). East Summit climbed by Bertholet, Gaillard and Polli on 17 Oct (1st ascent). 17 Oct winds too strong to continue. Had to evacuate III because snow soft powder and changing with wind. BC to C1 fixed rope. Most difficult climb was summit ridge and very sharp hard snow and ice. Slow ascent on 15th because very long ridge, strong wind and much snow. Tempa had little frostbite on arrival BC 16th. No accident or serious illness. Technically not so difficult, but physically difficult because long and windy & very cold and at altitude says summiter. 6 members in KTM; leader after 3 weeks trek via Kali Gandaki. Shailendra Sharma Tourism - 22 Oct 80 East Ridge route. Summit reached 15 Oct by 1) Jean-Pierre Rieben, 1947, mountain guide 2) Temba Sherpa, 28 Started from C3 (6550m established 3 Oct ) at 7:00 am and on top 4 pm; 5 mins on top and returned to BC 11 pm on 16th Oct. All well. Bertholet - 16 Sept 80 New route on North Face; not Indian route or, he thinks Australian. Will use ridge as much as possible rather than gullies since ridges less dangerous. Australians accident was bad luck. Will probably be to East Ridge but will have to see when get to mountain. Leave 19 Sept by road to Dumre and thence Marshyandgi Khola to Braga. BC at about 4200-4300m; 10 days to BC. Max 3 camps above BC and 1 biv perhaps 2 bivs. 1 Sherpa above BC, Temba Oxygen medical only Summit about 20 Oct If go over to East Ridge, will go up alpine style (no fixed ropes) and down other route. Hope getting everyone to top.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449568
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-e ridge up; ne face down

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Denis Bertholet M 1929 Switzerland Leader Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Michel Patrik Gaillard M 1948 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Claude Gay-Crosier M 1933 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Hotel owner and manager Details Other expeditions
Claude Pfefferle M 1953 Switzerland Exp Doctor Sion, Valais, Switzerland Physician Details Other expeditions
Bernard Polli M 1951 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Pierre Rieben M 1947 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bruno Vocat M 1957 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Temba Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN380301 AAJ Bertholet, Denis - - 55:263 (1981) -
ANN380301 MM - - - 77:11 (Jan 1981) -
ANN380301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126301/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-III - - -