Annapurna III | 1980 N Face

A Australia expedition to Annapurna III in 1980 via N Face, led by Warwick Deacock. Summit reached on 25th March 1980. 16 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1871
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN380101
Peak ID ANN3
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Warwick Deacock
Sponsor Australian Expedition to Annapurna III
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach Marshyangdi->Braga->BC
Basecamp Date 1980-03-07
Summit Date 1980-03-25
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 26
Termination Date 1980-04-02
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5335m due to avalanching and fatal accident
High Point (m) 5335
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 15
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 3
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/03,3780m),C1(28/03,5030m),xxx(25/03,5335m)
Route Notes Deacock - 15 April 80 Maximum altitude reached = 17,500 feet by one of 3 recce groups searching best route, reached on 25 March; their part of mountain was also avalanching and this route not used again. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 8 April 80 Deacock: Snowing 30 March climbers descending from C1 when snow avalanche carried 3 away. Remaining 4 searched but to no avail. Message was run to BC and remainder of climbers ascended to site and after systematic probing, the final body was discovered at 4:40 pm. Dr. Brian Fearnley (47) medical practitioner Christchurch, New Zealand and Dr. Kenneth Bowes performed last rites for bodies. These were then carried up to grave situated splendidly at 14,000 feet. A simple burial service was held. Later a headstone was placed on their graves. Bowes said C1 16,500 ft on 28 March established by Morse, Reeves, Blake and Bowes. On 29 March Jonathan Chester, Richard Schmidt and another member [Bartram] joined the 4 at C1. 7 sleeping in 3 tents 29/30. At about 9:30 pm, 2 tents were swept away by avalanches. 4 including Dr. Bowes were swept away in those 2 tents, but all safe and all in one tent next day they decided to descend. Bowes said to Ranjan Gupta four actually hit by avalanche but one (whose name not given) got out. Deacock after 3-4 days Al Read - 7 April 80 McDowell, Blake, LO + Sherpas leave Chame 6-7th, arrive KTM 10th or 11th or even later. Note from Warwick dated 2 April: 8 others via Thorang La Funeral April 1 29 March 7 climbers at C1. Avalanche destroyed camp that night, climbers salvaged tent and sat in it all night. On 30th they retreated toward BC but at about 14,000 ft an avalanche carried 3 men away. Remainder attempted to dig for them. All climbers went up and found the bodies that afternoon. Next day 31 March mountain too dangerous for movement. Expedition abandoned on 1 April still is dangerous condition. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 April 80 3 members Australian Annapurna III died instantly in an avalanche 30 March and expedition abandoned: 1) Stafford James Morse 27, farmhand Inverall, NSW 2) Nicholas David Reeves 27, barrister Camberwell 3) Richard John Schmidt 35, training officer Wellington, NZ (Australian) "All others are Ok" Message from Deacock; no altitude given. BC - 17 March 3700m. Expected established C1 5550m very soon in message received 31 March in Ministry. Deacock, Monteath and Co. - 5 March 80 Leave Dumre 7th - 12 days to BC. Have equipment for 5 camps but may not need 5 camps - almost certainly 4 camps. Expedition will need 2 weeks to acclimatize and recce route which may be Indians 1961 route or same other on North Face. "Being a climber in Australia is a bit like being a sailor in Nepal". "Indian route very easy technically so no reason why all shouldn't get to top", if use that route, says Monteath. Problem to find safest route through series of icefalls and staying away from ice cliffs below 20,000 feet. Some problem from deep snow on North Shelf at 20,000-21,500 feet; have snow shoes for this; will almost certainly be crossing this shelf whatever route chosen - Monteath. 6 weeks on the mountain - Monteath. 1st all Australian expeditions this year. Gaurishankar expedition's route definitely more difficult; we have technical experience, but now to get altitude experience (none of us much above 20,000 feet before). Deacock & Monteath - 3 March 80 Leave 6th March to Dumre by road, thence up Marshyangdi to Braga. Route = north side of mountain, which includes a number of ribs, faces, etc. Will decide precise route when see mountain; don't know exactly where Indians went, so may well be variation. About 130 porters Dumre - BC in 15 days. BC at about 16,000 feet - up to 5 camps above BC, which is at fairly low altitude. 1 Sherpa above, sirdar Pasang Ongchu of Namche (was with Americans Nepal 1979 Gaurishankar). 3 weeks acclimatization and moving loads up and establishing camps. Summit late April; leave Nepal 1st June. Oxygen medical only Doctors: Bowes leaves 3 April. Fearnley arrives 27 March with 1st trekking group.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449364
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

16 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Colin Chalmers Monteath M 1948 UK Climbing Leader Christchurch, New Zealand New Zealand Public Service, Antarctic Division Details Other expeditions
John William Higgs M 1940 Australia Climber Balmain, NSW, Australia Maritime Services Board Details Other expeditions
Stafford James Morse M 1955 Australia Climber NSW, Australia Student just graduated Details Other expeditions
Stephen Guy Colman M 1954 Australia Climber NSW, Australia Tour guide & nordic ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Nicholas David Reeves M 1953 Australia Climber Camberwell, Victoria, Australia Barrister Details Other expeditions
Adrian Robert Blake M 1954 Australia Climber Killara, NSW, Australia Radio technician Details Other expeditions
Richard John Schmidt M 1945 Australia Climber Wellington, New Zealand Training adviser Details Other expeditions
Faye Conway Kerr M 1931 Australia Climber Mt. Cook, New Zealand Park ranger Details Other expeditions
Geoffrey Keith Bartram M 1950 Australia Climber Queanbeyan, NSW, Australia Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Stephen James McDowell M 1956 Australia Climber Coogee, NSW, Australia Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Walter Raymond Johnston M 1933 Australia BC Manager Mt. Martha, Victoria, Australia Retired lawyer Details Other expeditions
Kenneth Cyril Bowes M 1932 Australia Climber East Ivanhoe, Victoria, Australia Medical practicioner Details Other expeditions
Harry Brian Fearnley M 1933 UK Climber Manchester, England Medical practicioner Details Other expeditions
Jonathan Chad Chester M 1951 Australia Climber Norwood, SA, Australia Mountain equipment representative & recreational instructor Details Other expeditions
Warwick Michael Mortimer Deacock M 1926 Australia Leader NSW, Australia Tour leader & travel agent Details Other expeditions
Pasang Ongchu Sherpa M 1954 Nepal Sirdar Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN380101 HJ Deacock, Warwick Australian Expedition to Annapurna III - 37:161-162 (1979-80) -
ANN380101 AAJ Deacock, Warwick - - 55:262-263 (1981) -
ANN380101 MM - - - 74:14 (Jul 1980) -
ANN380101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126203/Annapurna-III-Tragedy - - -
ANN380101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ - - -