Annapurna III | 1979 W Face-NW Ridge

A UK expedition to Annapurna III in 1979 via W Face-NW Ridge, led by Ron Rutland. Summit reached on 6th November 1979. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2117
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN379301
Peak ID ANN3
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face-NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Ron Rutland
Sponsor Cumbrian Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 5th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
Basecamp Date 1979-10-14
Summit Date 1979-11-06
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7555
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(14/10,3800m),C1(16/10,4575m),C2(20/10,5200m),C3(22/10,5800m),Biv(26/10),Biv(30/10,6700m),Smt(06/11)
Route Notes Ron Rutland - 19 Nov 79 BC below Bonington BC at about 12,500 feet - then went past point 12,430 on Harka Gurung map. All 6 went to C3 on 22 Oct and after that all moved up together and used bivs only after that. 4 reached 22,000 feet on 1 Nov (Whitham dropped out to BC because not acclimatizatizing [and Deakin dropped out earlier for same reason]). At 22,000 feet bivs = snowholes - progress slow because snow conditions bad didn't have enough food for 4 to summit, so on 1 Nov two strongest stayed up and Ron Rutland and Penman went down to C3. Linda Rutland and Whittock rested at 22,000 feet to rest and acclimatize one day. Moved off on up on 3rd - biv 100 feet from summit on 5th (didn't realise were so close as was dark when stopped climbing). Arrived C3 10 Nov: slow descent because wind blew snow into snowholes and obliterated track. No fixed ropes on this high section of mountain and not eating well because no appetizing food with summiters. Route not SE Ridge (with Peter's accident ,delayed a week waiting for his helicopter); actually on SW Face to NW Ridge because of this time loss because by 1st week of November had to be on summit and SE Ridge much longer route. In fact later stage of climb saw avalanche come down ridge so wasn't as safe as imagined. Ridge also averted by Americans last year as too problematical for small expedition. At first tried to go through glacier above point 12,430 but huge crevasses required ladders expedition didn't have; switched to a rock buttress on SW Face which Americans climbed and used same of their ropes above C3 at 19,000 feet. After rock buttress, Americans and British diverged (at about 20,000 feet); British went straight onto West Ridge while Americans went off right up a couloir onto ridge for the night, more directly closer to summit. Summiters both have frost-nipped toes from biv of 5th night; nothing to eat and drink then having left equipment at previous biv at top of col at 23,000 feet at start of ridge having emerged from face. Ron Rutland - 4 Oct 79 BC about 14,000 feet (with LO lower probably), maybe really just dump. Maybe ABC with tents or snowholes, no idea how high really but guess around 20,000 feet. Want to back end Nov in KTM so no more then 5 weeks on mountain. No Sherpas on mountain; one at LO's base only. Route = SE Ridge from west side of ridge; approach march via Modi Khola to Annapurna Sanctuary. Melling - 2 Oct 79 Route= SE Ridge from west side of ridge. Approach route up Modi Khola into Sanctuary. 3 members leave 4th and rest on 7th by bus to Pokhara. 1st party will go ahead and make BC. BC site and altitude not decided but probably on East Annapurna glacier. No fixed camps, no Sherpas, no oxygen; a few fixed ropes perhaps, depend on what we came across. 3-4 weeks on the mountain, but this too depends on what we find.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449223
Year 1979
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face-nw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alan Deakin M 1954 UK Climber Bingley, W Yorkshire, England Joiner Details Other expeditions
Peter Melling M 1942 UK Climber Wigan, Lancashire, England Joiner Details Other expeditions
George Eric Penman M 1940 UK Climber Coniston, Cumbria, England National park warden Details Other expeditions
Linda Rutland F 1949 UK Climber Windermere, Cumbria, England Outdoor pursuits instructor Details Other expeditions
Ronald (Ron) Rutland M 1948 UK Leader Windermere, Cumbria, England Outdoor pursuits instructor Details Other expeditions
Robin Whitham M 1947 UK Climber Kendal, Cumbria, England Outdoor pursuits instructor Details Other expeditions
John Whittock M 1955 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Actor Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN379301 AAJ Rutland, Ron - - 53:622-623 (1980) -
ANN379301 HJ Rutland, Ron and Linda Annapurna III South Face - 37:29-32 (1979-80) -
ANN379301 MM - - - 71:14 (Jan 1980) -
ANN379301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062202/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-III-South-Face-and-West-Ridge - - -
ANN379301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/9/annapurna-iii-south-face/ - - -