Annapurna III | 1977 NW Ridge

A Italy expedition to Annapurna III in 1977 via NW Ridge, led by Francesco Santon. Summit reached on 23rd October 1977. 29 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2182
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN377301
Peak ID ANN3
Year 1977
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Francesco Santon
Sponsor Italian Expedition to Annapurna III
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd,4th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Modi Khola->Annapurna Sanctuary (BC)
Basecamp Date 1977-10-07
Summit Date 1977-10-23
Summit Time 1300
Summit Days 16
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7555
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 27
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 10
Summit Hired 1
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/10,4000m),C1(09/10,4950m),C2(09/10),C3(11/10),C4(20/10,6000m),C5(22/10,6800m),Smt(23,25/10)
Route Notes Leader Santon - 5 Nov 77 Radin broken leg and slight finger frostbite but not unconscious - otherwise MFA correct except 2nd team went summit on 25th and spent night 25/26 in C5. Radian's accident near C4 12:00 hrs on 26th when Brianzi on his rope slipped and fell and hope he belaying by injured his leg same place where Radin injured. Henry fell 8 pm 23rd near C4 and fell 300m into crevasse. Body in crevasse: not possible to recover, all others well. 27 members: for unknown climbers also to be able to come to Himalayas. If no accidents total 19 to top including 3 women who were in C4 and 2 in C3. Route was West Ridge not SW Pillar - not new route. When looked at mountain, Southwest Pillar would have taken 60-70 days. C1 to top very good weather. BC and C1 always in fog. Whole team leaves Mon by RNAC. All members in KTM - Radin by helicopter yesterday (is in hotel not hospital). Women poised for top: Brusegan & Rossi in C5 De Eccher & Perale in C3 Jha, MFA -28 Oct 77 C3 - 11 Oct 5000m 15:00 by Brainzi, Radin, Gadenz C2 - by 7 members including these 9 Oct (not altitude). C1 - 4620m 1-2 days earlier. C4 - in couple of weeks. All well Bigio & Cepparo - 23 Sept 77 Expect leave 27 Tuesday; waiting for more baggage to arrive probably today. Bus to Pokhara, 1 night there. 6 days to BC via Modi Khola. Don't know exactly where BC but 3900-4000m on grass. Route via Southwest Pillar. Probably 5 camps above BC, C5 7000m. 10 Sherpas. No oxygen for climbing. 27 Italians including women really climbing (14 more, will trek to BC for 2 days visit, arrive BC about 10 Oct). 1st members on summit 25 days after BC. All climbers expect 2 or 3 have technical possibility to reach summit. Considering weather, acclimatization, etc. Maybe actually 12 on top; want at least 1 woman to get to top. 1 group of 5 scientists - chemistry of water in river and glaciers - bottle systemfication entymologist measurement. Most difficult parts of climb: getting on to pillar and rock barrier on pillar about 5700-6000m. Two members of the 27 members club Alpino Italino Expedition to 7548 meter Annapurna III namely Henry Luigino and Mr. Cheney Giuseppino along with Mr. Pasang Temba Sherpa of Paplu village had reached the summit on 23rd October at 13:00 hours. They were however struck with a terrible accident on their way back to C4 with another member Mr. Albiero Giacomo and Mr. Ang Dorje Sherpa who were in Camp 5. They started their decent at about 16:00 hours under the impression that the decent will be easier than the ascent but due to the snow and weather condition, they met with an accident. At about 20:00 hrs when they left about 100m Mr. Luigino who was decending, suddenly fell down into a crevasse. His body found 300m below the next day. He sustained injury on his head and face. He was found lying lifeless. Meanwhile two other members of the expedition namely Mr. Brianzi Giorgio and Mr. Radin Piero who were in Camp 5 on 23rd Oct not knowing the accident, went to the summit on 24th Oct 1977. They spent the night on 25th in Camp 5 when they were returning on 25th Mr. Radin Piero had an accident. He sustained a leg injury and was conscious for many hours. At about 23 hours he again regained his consciousness and other helping him were able to bring him to C4 at about 13:00 hours only. Most of the other members waiting for another bid to the summit had decided to return because of this tragic incident. The Italian expedition had left the base camp yesterday on 30th October on their way back to KTM. The Italian expedition had earlier pitched its Camp 5 on 22nd Oct at 12:00 hours at an altitude of 6800m and fourth camp at an altitude 6000m on 20th October. Mr. Henry Luigino, Mr. Cheney Giuseppino, Mr Albiero Giacoma and Mr. Ang Dorje Sherpa and Mr. Pasang Temba made these Camps 4 and 5. According to a report received here from the base camp yesterday rest of the members though tired are otherwise in good condition.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448477
Year 1977
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge

Members

29 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Giacomo Albiero M 1925 Italy Climber Montecchio Maggiore, Vicenza, Italy Bus driver Details Other expeditions
Pietro Bassi M 1921 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Vittorio Bigio M 1940 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Artisan, ski & alpine instructor, alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Brianzi M 1935 Italy Climber Asnago di Canturi, Como, Italy Bus driver Details Other expeditions
Maria Grazia Brusegan F 1954 Italy Climber Venice (Venezia), Italy Clerk & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Michele Brusegan M 1958 Italy Climber Venice (Venezia), Italy Workman; alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Claudio Calamelli M 1946 Italy Climber Mestre, Venezia, Italy Chemist Details Other expeditions
Andrea Cassutti M 1954 Italy Climber Padua, Italy Student & alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Renato Cepparo M 1916 Italy Deputy Leader Milano, Italy Journalist Details Other expeditions
Giuseppe Cheney M 1950 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide & ski Instructor Details Other expeditions
Marietta Cheney F 1930 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Medical assistant Details Other expeditions
Riccarda De Eccher F 1954 Italy Climber Udine, Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Luciano Gadenz M 1951 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Student & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Franco Giacomelli M 1951 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Luigino Henry M 1940 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Roberto Liberalato M 1946 Italy Climber Venice (Venezia), Italy Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Maria Marori F 1922 Italy Climber Milano, Italy University professor Details Other expeditions
Giancarlo Milan M 1951 Italy Climber Rovigo, Italy Tradesman Details Other expeditions
Piero Mozzi M 1952 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Guido Pagani M 1952 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Financier Details Other expeditions
Claudia Perale F 1952 Italy Climber Venice (Venezia), Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Mario (Franco) Piana M 1943 Italy Climber Genoa, Italy Workman Details Other expeditions
Pietro Radin M 1943 Italy Climber Vicenza, Italy Electrician Details Other expeditions
Renata Rossi F 1953 Italy Climber Villa di Chiavenna, Sondrio, Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Francesco Santon M 1939 Italy Leader Venice (Venezia), Italy Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Tiazana Weiss F 1952 Italy Climber Trieste, Italy Teacher Details Other expeditions
Andrea Zulian M 1946 Italy Climber Padua, Italy Commercial clerk Details Other expeditions
Pasang Temba Sherpa M 1950 Nepal H-A Worker Ghat, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions
Ang Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN377301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 52:594-596 (1978) -
ANN377301 MM - - - 59:12 (Jan 1978) -
ANN377301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197859402/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-III - - -