Annapurna III | 1970 NW Ridge from SW

A Japan expedition to Annapurna III in 1970 via NW Ridge from SW, led by Eiko Miyazaki. Summit reached on 19th May 1970. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2481
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN370101
Peak ID ANN3
Year 1970
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge from SW
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Eiko Miyazaki
Sponsor Ladies Climbing Club of Tokyo
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 2nd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1970-04-03
Summit Date 1970-05-19
Summit Time 1445
Summit Days 46
Total Days 53
Termination Date 1970-05-26
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7555
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 9
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 9
Summit Hired 2
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(03/04,3750m),C1(08/04,4350m),C2(11/04,4800m),C3(24/04,5300m),C4(28/04,5900m),C5(18/05,6800m),Smt(19/05)
Route Notes Junko Tabei South Face route very difficult because many crevasses and hard ice wall; no one attempted before so we don't know route. C2 to C3 - many crevasses and short icefall. C4 to C5 - very steep blue ice face and mixed with unstable rock; this most difficult part climbing wall. Members climbed 18th May from C4 to C5; very tired and very late to reach C5 at 5:00 pm (left C4 11:00 am). 17th very heavy snow and took long time to repack loads to carry up). Felt sure would go to summit next day. "I think I must go to summit - one member [Miyazaki] had headache and very tired so not able to go to summit, but Hirakawa and I very strong and must go to summit. All members had worked hard to enable us to get so high and we had to succeed". 19th May not so difficult: very long snow field and strong wind and no oxygen, but not so difficult as 18th May. Not so tired on 19th but my steps very slow I thought on 19th May. One Sherpa (sirdar Tenzing Girmi), then Tabei, then Hirakawa finally other Sherpa Pasang Nima all way from C5 to summit. About 3-5 meters from summit I took my husband's picture from my pocket and showed him summit; my husband is also climber (he plans to came to Dhaulagiri I in 1972). Plan for leader and other member Sato to go to summit, but leader not well and weather not good, so plan abandoned. I want to come again to Nepal on higher peak, 8000m peak - Everest even. Ono - 6 June 70 Arrived today: Hirakawa Manita Ono Hiraro Urushibara Others hope came today or tomorrow's if seats available. Ono went to C2 but not overnight, was in base. Highest camp C5 on col. Hirakawa Felt she could stand on top because of team work of all members; didn't have any feeling, but she did her duty; not very tired. 19 May reached summit 2:45 pm, she and Tabei and 2 Sherpas on rope. From C4 6800m; left camp 8:15 am. A little difficult this day because several crevasses and steep slope of ice and snow with some rock. Most difficult route from C4 to C5 because of blue ice face which required fixed rope all way from 6100 to 6800m. 4 members and 4 Sherpas put in this fixed rope in 9 days. C5 site reached 16 May because bad weather prevented movement same days. Hirakawa did same this route making and this not so very difficult. Japanese Alps in winter time more difficult than Annapurna III, she feels. Weather very changeable in winter in Japan and much snow this 1st attempt for summit by expedition. C5 site food and tent dumped by 2 Sherpas 18 May. 3 Sherpas and 3 members Tabei, Miyazaki and Hirakawa brought one more tent up and set up C5 where they all stayed. Spent nights 18 and 19 May in C5. Bad weather prevented 2nd summit attempt. 19th May 2 Sherpas to C4 and on 20th May all down from C5. 21st May 2 Sherpas up to C5 and brought down tents. Left base camp 31st May bringing down equipment and waiting for coolies. Yamazaki went to C2 mid-May, really well; all others well also. No accident, no other serious illness. Miyazaki - 15 March 70 All baggage arrived 14th. Leave 20th in charters to Pokhara (this not fixed). Leave Pokhara 21 or 22; up Modi Khola to base camp in 1 week at 3800m south of point 12,430 ft, then north on East Annapurna Glacier (U of Annapurna Glacier Gurung map). C5 on ridge between Gangapurna and Annapurna III at about 6800m and another camp at 7300m on ridge. Eika Miyazaki - 11 March 70 Also on Eiko Hirano Reiko Sato Hiroko Hirakawa 3 other members on 17 or 18 KTM and leave KTM 20th. Equipment are 12th 5000 kg. 2 members in 1st summit assault team; if conditions good 2nd and even 3rd team southern route from east Annapurna Glacier. Base on this glacier 3800m. Approach peak from southern face. Very difficult: avalanche danger and very steep 450m high ice wall. "We try our best to succeed". Summit attempt 10-15 May and departure from mountain 20 May. Mrs Tabei - 7 March 70 2 members of Ladies Tokyo Climbing Club arrive today Leader arrive March by Thai Dr. and 2 members 16 March Equipment arrive CCU today 10 days from today to Pokhara 9 Sherpas, 100-120 porters; 1 week to base 1st base camp 1 April 3800m May 10 summit from south side (Modi Khola) from 6 camps. Last camp 7200m Summit 7577m Leader - Miss Eiko Miyazaki Nepal 3 years ago and climbed Kailash. Snow View or Shanker Hotel
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2445756
Year 1970
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge from sw

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eiko Miyazaki F 1933 Japan Leader Nakano-ku, Tokyo, Japan Computer programmer of Japanese Science Technique Training Inst. Details Other expeditions
Junko Tabei F 1939 Japan Deputy Leader Toshima-ku, Tokyo, Japan Journal of the Physical Society of Japan Details Other expeditions
Eiko Hirano F 1932 Japan Climber Setagaya-ku, Tokyo, Japan Graduate of the [Cooking] Aliment Investigation College Details Other expeditions
Chieko Urushibara F 1938 Japan Climber Meguro-ku, Tokyo, Japan Secretary of Nippon Optical Co. Details Other expeditions
Hiroko Hirakawa F 1940 Japan Climber Neyagawa, Osaka, Japan Osaka Nursing Service at Nichimen Company's Hospital Details Other expeditions
Reiko Sato F 1941 Japan Climber Urawa, Saitama, Japan Clerk of Seikyo of the Ishikawajima Harima Heavy Industries Co. Details Other expeditions
Michiko Manita F 1941 Japan Climber Kawagoe, Saitama, Japan Teacher of Higashi Junior High School in Kawagoe Details Other expeditions
Morie Yamazaki F 1944 Japan Climber Ota-ku, Tokyo, Japan Clerk of Ebara Manufacturing Co. Details Other expeditions
Kyoko Ono F 1938 Japan Climber Meguro-ku, Tokyo, Japan Police Hospital, Tokyo, staff member Details Other expeditions
Pasang Nima Sherpa M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Girmi Tenzing Sherpa M 1923 Nepal H-A Worker Namche Bazar, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

7 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN370101 HJ Miyazaki, Eiko Japanese Women's Annapurna III Expedition, 1970 - 30:127-128 (1970) -
ANN370101 AAJ Miyazaka, Eiko - - 45:435-436 (1971) -
ANN370101 JAC Manita, Michiko Annapurna III, 1970 - 66:30-32 (1971) -
ANN370101 MM - - - 10:6 (Jul 1970) -
ANN370101 JAC Manita, Michiko Annapurna III, 1970 - 66:133-141 (1971) -
ANN370101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197143502/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-III-Second-Ascent - - -
ANN370101 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/30/7/japanese-womens-annapurna-iii-expedition-1970/ - - -