Annapurna III | 2003 SW Ridge

A UK expedition to Annapurna III in 2003 via SW Ridge, led by Kenton Cool. Summit reached on 6th November 2003. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 4427
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN303301
Peak ID ANN3
Year 2003
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Kenton Cool
Sponsor Annapurna III
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 11th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 2003-10-07
Summit Date 2003-11-06
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 30
Total Days 34
Termination Date 2003-11-10
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7555
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/10,4000m),ABC(14/10,5495m),Biv1(31/10,5500m),Biv2(01/11,6000m),Biv3(02/11,6250m),Biv4(03/11,6500m),Biv5(04/11,6650m),Biv6(05/11,7000m),Smt(06/11)
Route Notes BC at 4000m East Annapurna Glacier ABC at 5495m moraine just before icefall Biv 1 at 5500m top of "nose" Biv 2 at 6000m another serac of SW Ridge Biv 3 at 6250m on SW Ridge Biv 4 at 6500m snowhole SW Ridge Biv 5 at 6650m small ledge Biv 6 at 7000m at huge cave in snow crevasse on SW Ridge. Just above ABC had to "run" under dangerous icefall, which was very active releasing ice a dozen times a day ("it was scary"), then up a rock "nose" on top of which pitched Biv 1 (pitched a lot of bivs because of no fixed rope). Had one tent with them above ABC in alpine style climb. Poor quality rocks - middle section moderately steep snow and ice (6000-6500m biv) quite poor snow quality (granular snow). Above 6500m-6700m steep loose rock and some vertical ice. From 6700m to top knife-edge ridge to 7000m and above easy climb on snow to top. On top at 12:30 pm on 6th and slept at biv 6. 7th slept in Biv 2, BC 8th very late (8:00 pm after dark but full moonlight). On last bit on way up and down were crouching in strong wind gusts and very cold.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2458013
Year 2003
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kenton Edward Cool M 1973 UK Leader Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Roped access technician Details Other expeditions
Ian Parnell M 1968 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Photo-journalist Details Other expeditions
John M. Varco M 1973 USA Climber Steamboat Springs, Colorado Alpinist Details Other expeditions

References

10 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN303301 HIGH - Major New Line on Annapurna III - 255:5 (Feb 2004) -
ANN303301 ALP Cool, Kenton Annapurna III, Southwest Ridge, New Route - 6:88 (Spring 2004) -
ANN303301 AAJ Cool, Kenton Annapurna III - 78:106-115 (2004) -
ANN303301 AAJ Varco, John - - 78:394 (2004) -
ANN303301 HIGH - - - 265:61-62 (Dec 2004) -
ANN303301 AJ Parnell, Ian Annapurna III, SW Ridge - 109:3-13 (2004) -
ANN303301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200439303/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Himal-Annapurna-III-7555m-First-Ascent-of-the-Southwest-Ridge - - -
ANN303301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200410600/Annapurna-III-Expeditioning-the-British-Way-During-the-First-Ascent-of-the-Southwest-Ridge-Asia-Nepal - - -
ANN303301 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2004_files/AJ%202004%201-13%20Parnell%20Annapurna%20III.pdf - - -
ANN303301 OTH Cool, Kenton We Three Kings, Annapurna III Climber Magazin 50-56 (April 2004) -