Annapurna II | 1987 S Face

A Japan expedition to Annapurna II in 1987 via S Face, led by Kunihiko Kondo. Summit reached on 13th October 1987. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 20
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN287301
Peak ID ANN2
Year 1987
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Kunihiko Kondo
Sponsor Okayama Climbing Club Annapurna II SE Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Madi Khola->Siklis and Hogagoth (lost village)
Basecamp Date 1987-09-15
Summit Date 1987-10-13
Summit Time -
Summit Days 28
Total Days 36
Termination Date 1987-10-21
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7500m due to dangerous route, strong cold wind
High Point (m) 7500
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(15/09,2500m),ABC(20/09,4500m),Dep(02/10,6600m),xxx(13/10,7500m)
Route Notes BC SSW of mountain and SE of point 6103m ABC 4500m below icefall (really a biv site, no fixed camp) Deposit above a rock band High point at rock face. 18th Oct began alpine-style ascent with no fixed camp above BC: only 1 tent taken above BC so "ABC" was not a fixed camp. In reaching its site, bivouacked at 3500m 18th Sept 4000m, 19th Sept 4500m and ABC on 20th Sept. Then took 10 days to make route through icefall (actually nearly horizantally along icefall) till came to safe part of rock face above it (in 1984 had been able to go directly up icefall in 1 day's climb, but this year falling ice blocks from above rock face made it too dangerous). Then 11 more days up rock face to high point of 7500m on this very long route. 13th Oct slept at 7000m and on down to BC in 6 days. Route difficult and dangerous rock face and icefall. From BC to top there are 3 rock faces which are very steep. In descent had 1 day's rest at ABC and arrived at BC 19th Oct. Climb finished one time through icefall was enough, very cold strong wind threatened frostbite. No good camp/biv sites on face. Left BC 21 Oct and reached KTM 23 Oct. "This mountain very dangerous - next time in Nepal, another mountain." The two-man team climbed alpine-style in an attempt to pioneer a new variation of the normal South Face route. But they found that whereas in 1984 it had been possible to go up through the icefall in one day, this time ice blocks falling from above the rock face made that too dangerous, and it took ten days to make a route in safety along the icefall to rock face. Then 11 more days were spent moving up the rock face on the very long route till they reached their highest point, 7500m, on 13th Oct. The attempt was now abandoned: they needed rest and better shelter, they did not want to move through the icefall more than once, very strong cold winds threatened them with frostbite, there were no good bivouac sites on the face, and the mountain was very dangerous. "Next time in Nepal, we go to other mountain."
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Jai Himal Trekking
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452129
Year 1987
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Kunihiko Kondo M 1945 Japan Leader Okayama, Japan Designer Details Other expeditions
Kazuo Yamamoto M 1945 Japan Climber Otsu, Shiga, Japan Owner, sports shop Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN287301 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 62:215 (1988) -
ANN287301 MM - - - 120:11 (Mar 1988) -
ANN287301 IWA - - - :279 (1988) -
ANN287301 IWA - - - :71 (1988) -
ANN287301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198821502/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-II-Attempt - - -