Annapurna II | 1981 NW Ridge-W Ridge

A Italy expedition to Annapurna II in 1981 via NW Ridge-W Ridge, led by Arturo Bergamaschi. Summit reached on 23rd September 1981. 19 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN281302
Peak ID ANN2
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Italy
Leaders Arturo Bergamaschi
Sponsor Italian Expedition Annapurna II-IV (Italian Alpine Club)
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dumre->Marshyangdi->Pisang->Salatang Khola
Basecamp Date 1981-09-04
Summit Date 1981-09-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to snowstorm
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 19
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Annapurna IV (ANN4-813-01)
Campsites BC(04/09,3850m),C1(08/09,5305m),C2(17/09,5825m),C3(23/09,6400m),xxx(6400m)
Route Notes Abandoned attempt on A-II on 2 Oct, then turned attention to A-IV and abandoned attempt on 10 Oct. 72 hours snow BC, C1, C2 and C3 destroyed. Still C4 made after storm of late Sept. Reached 7300m and then strong wind made it impossible to continue. Eugenio Faggion and Rolando Menardi reached this point on 9 Oct, a day after C4 established at 6900m. BC 4 Sept - 3850m C1 8 Sept - 5305m C2 17 Sept - 5825m C3 23 Sept - 6400m C4 9 Oct - 6900m Route NW Ridge, not difficult technically. Expected to reach summit before 10 Oct but snow and wind defeated effort. Abandoned 10 Oct at 7300m. 9 Oct C4 made by Eugenio Faggion, Rolando Menardi and Gianni Tamiozzo. Some left BC rest, others are in BC today all well. Bergamaschi - 22 Aug 81 Route will be same from northwest as British 1960 and 1978 perhaps, depending on state of ice. Want north wall to West Ridge and from Col on Ridge to summit. Approach from Pisang to glacier lost A4 and A2. BC at 4000m. 5 camps above BC with last camp on Col at 7400m; thence climb to summit. Route not so easy because no success since 1973 and ice wall of West Ridge condition not known. No Sherpas above BC. Medical oxygen only. Leave KTM for Dumre 25 Aug and arrive BC after 13 days about 6-8 Sept. Summit 5-10 Oct, nearly 8000m.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449912
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge-w ridge

Members

19 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Arturo Bergamaschi M 1928 Italy Leader Bologna, Italy Professor of mathematics and physics Details Other expeditions
Francesco Cavazzuti M 1928 Italy Exp Doctor Bologna, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Carlo Claus M 1926 Italy Climber Trento, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Corradini M 1949 Italy Climber Rallo Tassullo, Trento, Italy Electrician Details Other expeditions
Andrea Cozzio M 1954 Italy Exp Doctor Spiazzo, Trento, Italy Physician Details Other expeditions
Eugenio Faggion M 1939 Italy Climbing Leader Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Luciano Grassi M 1923 Italy Climber Bergamo, Italy Metallurgical engineer Details Other expeditions
Lodovico Gualandi M 1926 Italy Radio Operator Bologna, Italy Radio technician Details Other expeditions
Mario Lacedelli M 1960 Italy Climber Cortina d'Ampezzo, Belluno, Italy Office clerk Details Other expeditions
Ugo Mazza M 1945 Italy Climber Bologna, Italy Member of city council Details Other expeditions
Rolando Menardi M 1960 Italy Climber Cortina d'Ampezzo, Belluno, Italy Student Details Other expeditions
Giovanni Pasinetti M 1950 Italy Climber Brescia, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Tarcisio Pedrotti M 1950 Italy Climber Parella, Torino, Italy Office worker Details Other expeditions
Giorgio Peretti M 1941 Italy Climber Cortina d'Ampezzo, Belluno, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ermanno Pollet M 1956 Italy Climber Courmayeur, Aosta, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Luigi Aldo Rampini M 1943 Italy Climber Arluno, Milano, Italy Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Gianni Tamiozzo M 1944 Italy Climber Oglianico, Torino, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Beppino Zandonella M 1949 Italy Climber Comellco Superiore, Belluno, Italy Explosives technician Details Other expeditions
Angelo Zatti M 1943 Italy Climber Gardone Val Trompia, Brescia, Italy Factory worker Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN281302 AAJ Bergamaschi, Arturo - - 56:231 (1982) -
ANN281302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198223101/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-II-and-IV-Attempt - - -