Annapurna II | 1980 SE Spur (to 6000m)

A Poland expedition to Annapurna II in 1980 via SE Spur (to 6000m), led by Jerzy Michalski. Summit reached on 8th May 1980. 8 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN280102
Peak ID ANN2
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Spur (to 6000m)
Route 2 S Face-W Ridge (to 7250m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Poland
Leaders Jerzy Michalski
Sponsor Lodz Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Madi Khola->Hogagoth
Basecamp Date 1980-04-09
Summit Date 1980-05-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 29
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7250m due to injuries by avalanche
High Point (m) 7250
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(09/04,3200m),ABC(11/04,4020m),C1(14/04,4800m),C2(5500m),C3(6200m),C4(07/05,7000m),xxx(08/05,7250m)
Route Notes Warm - 28 May 80 Reached col between Annapurna II and IV near C2; it is about 7000m where put C4. Made one camp in direction of Southeast Spur, but those in this team Michalski and Pankiewicz decided that with equipment and difficulties and weather, this route not possible, too much danger of avalanche. Returned after 2 days after having been to 6000m on spur. Next Kintopp, Laskowski and Michalski tried left across glacier and then up to make C3, on south side of West Ridge. This 1st attempt on West Ridge from South. Pankiewicz and Grochowski made ascent to Col with some difficult ice; made C4 and next day they tried to go up the ridge but returned because snow, wind and cold; went only about 200m up Ridge and then to C2. Kintopf and Laskowski tried to go to C4, but just about 100m from tent snow avalanche came and they fell about 400m down (about 700m distance). Both alive but Laskowski knee injured and Kintopf head cut and both mentally confused at first. So it was clear not possible to try for summit because had to help Kintopf and Laskowski who had to be escorted down and route very dangerous; southern approach to Annapurna II very dangerous. Another avalanche accident between BC and ABC when Laskowski also fell, this time fell 200-300m to glacier. Above C1 some big technical difficulties in rocky barrier about 200m high and needed fixed rope. No climbing with oxygen. Michalski - 24 March 80 Lodz Himalayan Expedition. Leave KTM 26 March by road to Pokhara Hope baggage will meet them at Pokhara by truck 27 or 28 March. Leave Pokhara about 1 April depending on big truck's arrival at Bhairava. SE Spur = New route. Looks very steep and very difficult; last 1000m looks like rock but don't know what sort of rock it is; also have problem of access to spur so must recce to find best approach. 5-6 days Pokhara to BC. Last village Hogo south of Annapurna II (up Madi Khola). BC at 4500-4800m but location not now known (depends on result of earlier recce). 3 or 4 camps above BC depending on difficulty. 2 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Lhakpa Dorje (1975 SW Face Everest). Oxygen medical only.
Accidents Injuries by avalanche
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449408
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se spur (to 6000m)

Members

8 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Marek Grochowski M 1942 Poland Climber Lodz, Poland Civil engineer Details Other expeditions
Wojciech Jedlinski M 1946 Poland Climber Lodz, Poland Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions
Piotr Kintopf M 1942 Poland Exp Doctor Lodz, Poland Physician specializing in anesthesiology Details Other expeditions
Zbigniew Laskowski M 1950 Poland Climber Lodz, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Jerzy Tadeusz Michalski M 1931 Poland Leader Lodz, Poland Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Krysztof Pankiewicz M 1957 Poland Climber Lodz, Poland Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Aleksander Warm M 1951 Poland Climber Lodz, Poland Chemical engineer Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN280102 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:262 (1981) -
ANN280102 MM - - - 74:14 (Jul 1980) -
ANN280102 MM - - - 74:14 (Jul 1980) -
ANN280102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126202/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-Attempt - - -