Annapurna II | 1980 N Face-W Ridge

A Japan expedition to Annapurna II in 1980 via N Face-W Ridge, led by Ikuo Tanabe. Summit reached on 24th April 1980. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN280101
Peak ID ANN2
Year 1980
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Ikuo Tanabe
Sponsor Japan-Kamiichi Hoskai Himalaya Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Marshyangdi->Pisang->Salatang Khola
Basecamp Date 1980-03-25
Summit Date 1980-04-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 37
Termination Date 1980-05-01
Termination Reason 6
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7000m due to fatal accident
High Point (m) 7000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/03,3500m),C1(27/03,4200m),C2(01/04,5200m),C3(12/04,6300m),C4(24/04,7000m),xxx(26/04,7000m)
Route Notes 5 Annapurna II members - 11 May 80 C4 24 April at 7000m Accident 26 April C1 - 4200m - 27 March C2 - 5200m - 1 April C3 - 6300m - 12 April All surviviors arrive KTM yesterday. C4 highest point reached by 5 members and 1 Sherpa (not Hirata, who not so well); they staged 25 April in C4. Tanabe and Nozaki met in good condition 26 April and descended with Nishikawa that day; going to C3 and planned Doi, Inoue and 1 Sherpa next day to C5. Tanabe fell at 6700m on 26 April during descent; was sick and slipped; was jumaring down fixed rope, but then at traverse slipped and fell 10m on 60 degree slope and injured. Nishikawa made biv for Tanabe, but now Nishikawa had bad headache. Tanabe died at 8:00 pm of exhaustion and exposure and perhaps altitude sickness. 27 April - Nishikawa thought Tanabe sleeping, but finds early am he dead and now decides Tanabe died evening before. Nishikawa goes up to C4, those in C4 then descend. All reached BC with body 30 April. 1 May - body cremated at BC; ash and bones placed under Cwm with stones saying Tanabe sleep here and date. Inoue takes some bone to family in Japan. Route was North Face. C4 little below West Ridge; C4 would have been on Ridge. Prachandra Shrestha, Tourism - 4 May 80 Leader Inkuo Tanabe, 36, Toyama prefecture, engineer 26 April accident after established 7000m C4; when returning for goods, leader fell and died at above same altitude as camp. All others well; body to be carried to BC and cremated there. Expedition abandoned. Message dated 1 May Tanabe & Co. - 6 March 80 Japan-Kamiichi Hasokai Himalaya Expedition 1980 Leader Ikuo Tanabe Route same as 1978 British and 1971 Japanese from north via Marshyangdi to Pisang, up Salatang Khola to BC at 3500m. 5 members now in KTM, 1 more member arrives 15 March. Leave KTM to Pokhara by truck 16; leave 17 March with 60 porters for 10 days march to BC. North Face is snow; West Ridge is rock and very narrow; ridge most difficult part with snow and icefall section on faace between 5200 and 6300m (between C2 and C3). 2 Sherpas above BC including Ang Temba (Namche). No oxygen at all. Arrive BC 27 March, summit 25-28 April BC - 3500m C1 - 4400m C2 - 5200m C3 - 6300m C4 - 6900m C5 - 7300m on ridge
Accidents Tanabe (leader) killed by fall
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449394
Year 1980
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-w ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tadahiro Doi M 1953 Japan Climber Kamiichi, Toyama, Japan Photographer Details Other expeditions
Susumu Hirata M 1944 Japan Climber Toyama, Japan Postal employee Details Other expeditions
Kazumasa Inoue M 1952 Japan Deputy Leader Kamiichi, Toyama, Japan Section chief in chemical factory (Fuji Chemical Co.) Details Other expeditions
Takashi Nishikawa M 1955 Japan Climber Namerikawa, Toyama, Japan Surveyor Details Other expeditions
Eiji Nozaki M 1954 Japan Climber Tateyama, Toyama, Japan High school teacher Details Other expeditions
Ikuo Tanabe M 1943 Japan Leader Toyama, Japan Management staff (Kongo Chemical Co.) Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN280101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:262 (1981) -
ANN280101 MM - - - 74:14 (Jul 1980) -
ANN280101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198126201/Annapurna-II-Tragedy - - -