Annapurna II | 1979 N Face-W Ridge

A UK expedition to Annapurna II in 1979 via N Face-W Ridge, led by Paul Moores. Summit reached on 18th October 1979. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 5
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN279301
Peak ID ANN2
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face-W Ridge
Route 2 NW Ridge of A-IV
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Paul Moores
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Pokhara->Marshyangdi->Pisang->Sabje Khola
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1979-10-18
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date 1979-10-20
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7160m due to high winds
High Point (m) 7160
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(3500m),ABC,Biv1,Biv2,Biv3,Biv4,Biv5,xxx(18/10,7160m)
Route Notes Paul Moores - 23 Oct 79 Alan's illness never cleared up but all got onto plateau at about 21,000 feet which meant all technical difficulties over, but summit 5 miles away. Got onto West Ridge from valley where mountian school is decided against North Face when 3 massive avalanches came down when at ABC (dust of one hit camp), so went for repeat of Chris Bonington ridge route. Snow every day, which meant tracks made to move loads high were filled in after night sleeping low. Wind prevented summit attempt; got to 22,500 feet and then Alan couldn't go down above because no fixed rope. Adrian and Moores tried to go to top on 18 Oct but so windy couldn't get beyond 23,500 that day and then quit. No accidents or frostbite. Burgesses still at Manang airstrip from which Moores flew today. Alan Burgess with Moores - 30 Aug 79 Route from North; North Face to West Ridge of face itself too dangerous. 3 members only and no Sherpas above BC. Strictly alpine-style with no oxygen and no build-up. Leave KTM 5 Sept by road to Dumre. 25 porters to BC via Marshyangdi to Pisang then south to BC at 16,000 feet at least. ABC at 18,000 feet if BC not above 16,000. Must acclimatize, will kill time getting fit looking at possible routes and walking around; then with break in weather, go for it and finish climb perhaps in 1 week.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449204
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face-w ridge

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Adrian (Aid) Burgess M 1948 UK Climber Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England Alpine instructor & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Alan Burgess M 1948 UK Climber Huddersfield, W Yorkshire, England Alpine instructor & alpinist Details Other expeditions
Paul Anthony Moores M 1952 UK Leader Glencoe, Argyll, Scotland Alpine instructor Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN279301 AAJ Moores, Paul - - 53:622 (1980) -
ANN279301 HJ Moores, Paul Annapurna II - 37:162-163 (1979-80) -
ANN279301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198062201/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-II-Attempt - - -
ANN279301 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/37/30/expeditions-and-notes-37/ - - -