Annapurna II | 1978 S Face-W Ridge

A Austria expedition to Annapurna II in 1978 via S Face-W Ridge, led by Johann Scharnagl. Summit reached on 3rd May 1978. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2132
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN278101
Peak ID ANN2
Year 1978
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Johann Scharnagl
Sponsor -
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries W Germany
Approach -
Basecamp Date -
Summit Date 1978-05-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 7100m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 7100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(3200m),C1(4100m),C2(5000m),C3(5700m),C4(6200m),xxx(03/05,7100m)
Route Notes BC 3200m C1 4100m C2 5000m C3 5700m C4 6200m plus free camp by Toni Pellhammer 6500m. 7100m highest point reached = col to West Ridge; reached by Pellhammer and 3 Sherpas then slight frostbite and other having problems (leader's hand infected), 2 others sun-stroke. South Face to West Ridge route. 4 May Pellhammer to C1 and all to BC. Then came bad weather with deep snowfall. Had 1st attempt in April by all members, but 2 members reached only C2 and snow stopped that attempt. Small team can succeed if not 2 men really out with hand [infection] and sun-stroke. SR Sharma (Tourism) - 10 May 78 Abandoned because bad weather on 8 May. Last camp 14 April C1 4100m. All well. Scharnagl & Kruettner - 31 March 78 South Face route, a new route on Annapurna II. Last 700m is rock, below is snow and ice. Leave KTM 2 April by road to Pokhara. 6-7 days to BC up Madi Khola. Last day from Hogo village to BC very difficult because of rock. BC - 3500m C1 - 4800-5200m C2 - 5800-6100m C3 - 6500-6600m C4 - 7100-7200m 5 Sherpas above BC. Sirdar is Pemba Tsering. No oxygen for climbing or sleeping. 4 weeks to summit from BC. Expedition returns to KTM end of May.
Accidents Leader's hand infected & others sunstroke
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448670
Year 1978
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face-w ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Johann (Hans) Scharnagl M 1947 Austria Leader Koessen, Tirol, Austria Bookkeeper Details Other expeditions
Toni Pellhammer M 1927 Austria Climber Bavaria, W Germany Lumberjack Details Other expeditions
Geierstanger Siegeried M 1952 W Germany Climber Ruhpolding, Bavaria, W Germany House painter Details Other expeditions
Hermann Kruettner M 1948 Austria Climber Salzburg, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions
Pemba Tsering Sherpa M - Nepal Sirdar - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN278101 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 53:274 (1979) -
ANN278101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197927402/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-II - - -