Annapurna II | 1973 W Ridge-N Face

A Japan expedition to Annapurna II in 1973 via W Ridge-N Face, led by Yukio Shimamura. Summit reached on 6th May 1973. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 3
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID ANN273101
Peak ID ANN2
Year 1973
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge-N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yukio Shimamura
Sponsor Sangaku Doshikai Annapurna II Expedition 1973
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 3rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Marshyangdi->Pisang->Salatang Khola
Basecamp Date 1973-03-16
Summit Date 1973-05-06
Summit Time 2030
Summit Days 51
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 7937
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 5
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 8
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(16/03,3300m),C1(21/03,4200m),C2(10/04,5000m),C3(14/04,6000m),C4(23/04,6750m),C5(04/05,7300m),Smt(06/05)
Route Notes Summit team of 3 left from C6, 2 returned from 6900m, Kondo summited and bivouaced at 7330m on descent. MM29:13 Sakashita - 23 May 1973 Others arrive KTM on 25th by bus. Kondo, Ogawa and Sakashita tried to reach summit. Very late, so 2 members stayed in biv and only Kondo to summit about 8:30 pm. 7300m on West Ridge. Left C5 6:00 am on 6 May, reached biv site at 12:00. Attack time very short, so Ogawa stayed there and other 2 went on. Leader on walkie-talkie at 5 pm told them to come back "so I came back but Mr. Kondo cannot hear so went on" (Sakashita and Kondo had separated because Sakashita had returned to biv for flag). Sakashita at 7650m at 5 pm and returned to biv. Kondo returned to biv site at 11:00 pm. Enough moonlight for Kondo to see to climb. Kondo had no flag with him. Only one summit attempt via West Ridge route as planned. No accidents, illness, frostbite, or yeti. Route now very difficult but very long; ridge snow until summit ridge of mixed snow and rock on which rope not necessary. Shinamura and Takaku 2 members arrive 7 March. Leave 1st March maybe, go by truck to Pokhara. 1000m fixed rope; maybe West Ridge; now route from British but same as Shinshu University. Shinshu University last camp too far from summit: if possible want make last camp at foot of summit at 7300m. Takaku - 18 Feb 1973 3 more members arrive 22nd including leader. 2 more arrive 8 March including Dr, meet at BC. Leave 1st March by truck with equipment to Pokhara. Basecamp south ex-Pisang route probably north onto ridge running east from Annapurna IV. Maybe same as Shinshu; not sure present route. If possible like to climb via North Ridge. Caravan reaches base camp about 10 days. 8 Sherpas. 5 camps above base; C5 about 7500m. Summit about middle May. No members climbed in Nepal before but have climbed in Europe in summer and winter. Came last year spring on recce to look at southern approaches but concluded too dangerous because of avalanches.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route -
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2446797
Year 1973
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge-n face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yukio Shimamura M 1942 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Truck driver Details Other expeditions
Yukio Takafu M 1942 Japan Exp Manager Tokyo, Japan Manager of restaurant (Mikasa Restaurant) Details Other expeditions
Nobuyuki Ogawa M 1944 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Printing engineer with Ogawa Printing Co. Details Other expeditions
Katsuyuki Kondo M 1945 Japan Climber Chiba, Japan Architect Details Other expeditions
Naoe Sakashita M 1947 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Student of commerce, Waseda University Details Other expeditions
Toshitaka Sakano M 1944 Japan Exp Doctor Tokyo, Japan Physician Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
ANN273101 AAJ Shimamura, Yukio - - 48:206 (1974) -
ANN273101 MM - - - 29:13 (Sep 1973) -
ANN273101 MM Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman Annapurna 2 - 51:36-37 (Sep 1976) -
ANN273101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197420602/Asia-Nepal-Annapurna-II - - -