Amphu I | 2013 SW Face-W Ridge

A S Korea expedition to Amphu I in 2013 via SW Face-W Ridge, led by An Chi-Young. Summit reached on 9th October 2013. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 8282
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMPH13301
Peak ID AMPH
Year 2013
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Face-W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality S Korea
Leaders An Chi-Young
Sponsor Korean Amphu I Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 1st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Jatra Pass->Kote->Tangnag->Khare (Hinku Khola)
Basecamp Date 2013-09-27
Summit Date 2013-10-09
Summit Time 1500
Summit Days 12
Total Days 15
Termination Date 2013-10-12
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6740
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Mera Peak
Campsites BC(27/09,5350m),Biv1(08/10,6450m),Smt(09/10)
Route Notes At first the team acclimatized on Mera Peak; that it didn't summit as they mistakenly took the right side of the normal route. On the summit day of Amphu, the team started on the 9th October from its bivouac at 8:30 am, reached the summit at 3 pm, then returned to its same bivouac at 6 pm. The day after the team was back at the BC at 12:30 am. After this, the team thought it had enough time to come sooner to Kathmandu and then leave faster for Korea. However, it was trapped by snow and had a very hard time between Sherpani Col and Makalu BC. The team eventually reached Num. From there it was driven to Biratnagar by bus, then after 2 days of waiting to Kathmandu by plane. Considering the climb on Amphu I, it was mainly in ice and snow. The general slopes of the corridor were 70-degrees steep in average (up to 80 in passages). On the West Ridge, as it was quite sharp and in soft snow conditions, the team had to belay all time up to the summit and down from it. Eventually the team left on the mountain 1 rock piton, 6 ice screws and snow bars, mostly used for the abseils in the corridor and belays on the West Ridge. It used otherwise 5 to 7 meters of fixed rope to equip a delicate passage in the broken glacier used to approach the proper climb. The route was called windy couloir as most of the SW Face's corridor used by the Koreans was so. The whole route is 1800m high, with 500m of glacier approach (1300m for the climb itself). International grade estimated like: WI4 AI5 ED2 XI UIAA 6
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461513
Year 2013
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw face-w ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Il-Eun Ahn M 1981 S Korea BC only Seoul, S Korea Editor of children's books Details Other expeditions
Chi-Young An M 1977 S Korea Leader Seoul, S Korea Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Young-Mi Kim F 1980 S Korea Climber Seoul, S Korea Book illustrator Details Other expeditions
Young-Hoon Oh M 1978 S Korea Climber Daejeon (Taejon), S Korea Doctoral student Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMPH13301 JAN Oh, Young-Hoon Windy Couloir, The First Ascent of Amphu 1 - 15:71-72 (2014) -
AMPH13301 AAJ Oh, Young-Hoon Amphu I (6,740m), The First Official Ascent - 88:323-324 (2014) -
AMPH13301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212612/Amphu-I-6740m-first-official-ascent - - -
AMPH13301 KAN - - - 7:15-16 (2013) -