Amphu I | 2012 N Face

A Japan expedition to Amphu I in 2012 via N Face, led by Minoru Nagoshi. Summit reached on 11th November 2012. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7793
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMPH12301
Peak ID AMPH
Year 2012
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Minoru Nagoshi
Sponsor Hiroshima Mountaineering Federation 70th Anniversary Expedition 2012
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Lukla->Dingboche->Chhukung, SSE to Chhukung Glacier
Basecamp Date 2012-10-31
Summit Date 2012-11-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 11
Total Days 15
Termination Date 2012-11-15
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to avalanche danger
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/10,5100m),Biv1(10/11,5400m),Biv2(11/11,6000m),xxx(11/11,6000m)
Route Notes The team approached their BC from Lukla via Dingboche and Chhukung villages to the Chhukung Glacier, which was now moraine, and made their BC on the moraine at 5100m on 31 October. Then they went on an acclimatization trek to the Amphu Laptsa at 5800m, wehre they arrived on 3 November. They returned to BC on the 4th. On the 5th they went to the site on their first bivouac and returned to BC the same day. They began their attack on the mountain on 10 November, when they revisited their first bivouac site at 5400m on a platform they dug out of the ice. The next day, the 11th, they moved up to 6000m and bivouacked here at the bottom of the North Face. During the night there was a "huge" avalanche, and in the morning of the 12th they saw a large serac overhanging their bivouac site which appeared to be ready to fall. They immediately decided to leave the mountain and descended to 5400m, where they had spent the night of the 10th. They were in BC on the 13th, and that day the serac did all; no one was hit by it. They left BC on the 15th. Two men, Nagoshi and Shinagawa got frostbite -- Nagoshi on four fingers and Shinagawa, who had been frostbitten on a previous climb, on his toes. The frostbitten areas were painful, but no blisters had developed. Nagoshi said he would like to return to Amphu's North Face. He believed this had been the first attempt ever to scale the mountain.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route True
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461180
Year 2012
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Tsuneo Hirata M 1935 Japan BC Manager Hiroshima, Japan Retired engineer Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Matsushima M 1952 Japan Climber Hiroshima, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Takashi Shinagawa M 1975 Japan Climber Hiroshima, Japan Judo therapist Details Other expeditions
Minoru Nagoshi M 1948 Japan Leader Hiroshima, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Mitsutoshi Yoshimura M 1954 Japan Climber Hiroshima, Japan Executive of Lang brokerage company Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.