Amphu Gyabjen | 2010 NE Ridge of Amphu East

A UK expedition to Amphu Gyabjen in 2010 via NE Ridge of Amphu East, led by John Allen. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 6719
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMPG10101
Peak ID AMPG
Year 2010
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Ridge of Amphu East
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders John Allen
Sponsor British Amphu Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Via Chhukung
Basecamp Date 2010-04-05
Summit Date -
Summit Time -
Summit Days 0
Total Days 4
Termination Date 2010-04-09
Termination Reason 12
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5900m due to loose rock on Amphu East
High Point (m) 0
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Amphu East
Campsites BC(05/04,5100m),Biv.Amphu East(06/04,5600m),Amphu East.xxx(07/04,5900m)
Route Notes Biv on NE Ridge of Amphu East High point at NE Ridge of Amphu East. The three-man team had a permit for Amphu Gyabjen, southeast of Chhukung in Khumbu, but their goal was a nearby peak they called Amphu East, which is the unnamed point, 6205m on the Schneider Khumbu map. They first climbed Island Peak with their group of trekkers. The three members summited it on 3 April. Then the climbers went to their own mountain and established BC on 5 April at 5100m beside a trail marked on the Schneider map that leads east from Chhukung village, and camped at about the point where the trail turns south to Amphu. From this base, on the 6th they placed a bivouac at 5600m on the NE Ridge of point 6205m. The next day, the 7th, was to be their summit day, and they set out at 8:00 am for the top, leaving all their gear in their bivouac. But when they reached 5900m on the ridge, the ridge now steepened considerably and consisted of loose rock. They tried to avoid this hazard of scree and loose rock by traversing 20m onto the southeast side of the ridge, but the rock was still steep and loose. At 2:00 pm, they were still unhappy with conditions under foot: it was still steep and loose. They had gone back onto the ridge, but that was no improvement. They decided that it was now too late to try for the summit, and they returned to their bivouac at 6:00 pm. The climb was over and they were back in BC the next day. They left BC for Deboche on 9 April. Franklin thinks it is possible to climb this ridge, and he might go back to it after a couple of years.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Summit Nepal Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 4935
Year 2010
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne ridge of amphu east

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
David John Allen M 1961 UK Leader Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England High school teacher Details Other expeditions
David Charles Barker M 1964 UK Climber Stockport, Derbyshire, England Outdoor instructor Details Other expeditions
Steven (Steve) Franklin M 1988 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England University student Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.