Amotsang | 2012 W Ridge

A France expedition to Amotsang in 2012 via W Ridge, led by Lionel Chatain. Summit reached on 23rd October 2012. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 7792
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMOT12301
Peak ID AMOT
Year 2012
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Lionel Chatain
Sponsor Amotsang 2012
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Annapurna Trail and Phu Valley
Basecamp Date 2012-10-20
Summit Date 2012-10-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 3
Total Days 8
Termination Date 2012-10-28
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6220
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Pokharkan (POKR-123-01) and unnamed 6305m peak north of Jomson Himal
Campsites BC(20/10,5435m),ABC(22/10,5545m),xxx(23/10,6220m)
Route Notes On 19th of October: the team had to cross the river above Nagoru village, but because of high level of the water, the mules were blocked: then the 18 charges of the animals had to be carried in 2 times by the porters until the BC. (From there Lionel Chatain noticed that right after the river crossing the usual pass can be avoided by a higher variant created recently.) On 20th of October: the BC was established at 5435m above the lake marked on the map (which consists more in a wet area in reality). This BC lies in the bottom of Pokharkan (6372m) whch would be climbed last. On 22nd of October: the team crossed the Amotsang Pass walking along a superb lake (not mentioned on the map) and reached its Advanced Base Camp at 5545m (for Amotsang/6305m peak). (The ABC was established lower than the one estimated by Paulo Grobel on his map, for having water available. In fact there is a better spot further north with a large flat are around 5600/5700m). From there the temperature was very cold every day at ABC, usually -25 degrees C, Explaining quite well the conditions observed in the area, with a lots of goblet snow (no avalanche risk, but difficult to progress in it) On 23rd of October: the team started at 6:30 am for Amotsang with its 2 Sherpas. Trying at first a left appraoch to the West Ridge: after one hour to progress in goblet deep inconsistent snow, moreover climbing under a serac, Chatain decided this option was too exposed and decided to try the next option more on the right. After a large detour under Jomsom Peak, the team met 60m in 45/50-degree slopes with a cornice to break at the end, and the western ridge was eventually joined. From there, Chatain went alone to check the snow/ice practicability on the ridge. After 80m on the ridge, with 1000m high face on the south side, he could just admit that the snow conditions, even not that bad (refrozen crust on the surface, quite inconsistent snow under) didn't allow him to fully secure the progression (even with snow anchors) of his 3 clients (the ridge's slopes varied the section he crossed between 45/50 degrees and 70 degrees of steepness). In fact the climb would have been possible with 2 autonomous ropes in alpine style, but his clients were not enough technically skilled for that. Lionel stopped then at 6220m at 2 pm on the ridge after 80m of climb from the col (he was approximately 300m far again from the next option col). All the team was back at the ABC at 5 pm. On 24th of October: both Sherpas were back at the BC (rest for the team at ABC). On 25th of October: without a permit for it, the team ascended the 6305m peak (without name on the map) lying west [north?] of Jomsom Peak (no name but in fact, true summit, with more than a 100m high depression between its summit and the col separating it from Jomsom Peak). After a start at 6 am, the team reached the summit through a route using the right side of the East Face; after a first short 40m north section of 35/40-degree slopes, the east slopes at 25/30 degrees led them lightly northwest from the summit that they reached at 2:30 pm. Only Couture stopped in this slopes, then waited for the team at the bottom of the East Face. The team went back on his steps, reached a further northwest col and by the gentle 30-degree slopes of the East Face, went back to his ABC at 3:30 pm after having met back Couture. This would apparently the first ascent of this summit. On 27th of October: all of the team went back to the BC of Pokharkhan then had a rest on 28th. On 29th of October: Chatain and the 2 Sherpas ascended Pokharkhan face, sometimes in deep goblet's snow!. The trio started at 8 am, summited at 4 pm and joined the camp on the riverside at 9 pm (in fact that day, the rest of the team had walked down at 4500m to the river camp above Nagoru in order to gain time). Fixed rope and Sherpas: The team took 150m fixed rope for the climb of the West Ridge pass, but didn't use it. Sherpas: Sirdar Ngawang Sherpa, 15 April 1971, Phalate-4, Okhaldhunga Phu Dorchi Sherpa, 1 March 1971, Makalu-4, Sankhuwasabha
Accidents -
Achievement 1st summit of 6305m
Agency Glacier Safari Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2461161
Year 2012
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Lionel Yves Hubert Chatain M 1976 France Leader St. Pancrasse, Isere, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Philippe Couture M 1954 France Climber Geaune, Landes, France Veterinarian Details Other expeditions
Guillaume Francois Claude Hernandez M 1982 France Climber Clamart, Hauts-de-Seine, France Agronomist Details Other expeditions
Philippe Jean Marty M 1958 France Climber Grenoble, Isere, France Bank employee Details Other expeditions
Ngawang Sherpa M 1971 Nepal Sirdar Khijiphalate-4, Okhaldhunga - Details Other expeditions
Phu Dorchi Sherpa M 1971 Nepal H-A Worker Makalu-4, Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions

References

0 recorded references.