Ama Dablam | 1996 NW Face up; SW Ridge down

A Slovenia expedition to Ama Dablam in 1996 via NW Face up; SW Ridge down, led by Vanja Furlan. Summit reached on 4th May 1996. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1733
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD96101
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1996
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face up; SW Ridge down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Vanja Furlan
Sponsor Slovenian Ama Dablam Expedition 1996
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 183
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1996-04-11
Summit Date 1996-05-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Island Peak
Campsites BC(11/04,4700m),Biv1(30/04,5630m),Biv2(01/05,5950m),Biv3(02/05,6200m),Biv4(03/05,6600m),Biv5(04/05,6500m),Smt(04/05),Biv6(05/05,4800m)
Route Notes biv 1 on NW Face (on Japanese autumn BC route) 2 on NW Face to left of Japanese route 3 on NW Face 4 on NW Face 5 at top of Dablam Glacier on normal SW Ridge route 6 close to normal BC site. Rested at BC 4 days on return from Island Peak. Furlan and Humar 21st April to 25th tried to mark ascent but weather bad (snowfall and frequent avalanche) all these days; put tent under serac at 5630m (at biv site) and waited for good weather which didn't come; on 28th down to BC, taking all gear down with them so that when went up again, second ascent would be pure alpine-style; had gotten to high point of 5780m on 24th. 30th April started up again in successful continuous push to top in more direct route than that of Japanese in 80 hrs on NW Face. In last of descent, went through C1 of Swedish-US team, lost their way below C1 in fog and bivouacked on grass near water and not far from normal BC site. 6th May returned to own BC. Most difficult part on 1st and 2nd May (5680m to 6010m at end of rocks) this the crux of ascent 70 degrees to 90 degrees mostly ice; at top section, two very difficult pitches; 2nd biv very poor place (hanging biv) which had not expected to have to stop at, but did because was late in day; at this biv accidently dropped all ice screws and therefore had to continue upwards on face because impossible to decend without ice screws and to solo climb upwards (except for one rock pitch); biv 3 took hours to dig out ledge in hard ice.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2455084
Year 1996
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face up; sw ridge down

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vanja Anton Furlan M 1966 Slovenia Leader Novo Mesto, Slovenia Forestry student Details Other expeditions
Tomaz Humar M 1969 Slovenia Climber Kamnik, Slovenia Electrician Details Other expeditions
Zvonko Pozgaj M 1969 Slovenia BC Manager/Cameraman Ljubljana, Slovenia Electro-technician Details Other expeditions

References

9 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD96101 AJ Humar, Tomaz Ama Dablam: North-West Face - 102:80-84 (1997) -
AMAD96101 AAJ Furlan, Vanja The Northwest Face of Ama Dablam - 71:5-12 (1997) -
AMAD96101 AAJ - - - 71:296 (1997) -
AMAD96101 HIGH - - - 167:65-67 (Oct 1996) -
AMAD96101 - Pozgaj, Zvonko Ama Dablam, Odansjane Sanje Planiska Zveeza Slovenije, Ljubljana - -
AMAD96101 - McDonald, Bernadette Tomaz Humar Hutchinson, London - -
AMAD96101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199729603/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Northwest-Face-The-Stane-Belak-Srauf-Memorial-Route - - -
AMAD96101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199700500/The-Northwest-Face-of-Ama-Dablam-Vertical-Commitment-in-the-Nepal-Himalaya - - -
AMAD96101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1997_files/AJ%201997%2080-84%20Humar%20Ama%20Dablam.pdf - - -