Ama Dablam | 1995 SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 1995 via SW Ridge, led by Alan Burgess. Summit reached on 19th October 1995. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1561
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD95304
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1995
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Alan Burgess
Sponsor American Ama Dablam 1995
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 168,175
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries UK
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1995-10-07
Summit Date 1995-10-19
Summit Time -
Summit Days 12
Total Days 17
Termination Date 1995-10-24
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 7
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 3
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/10,4400m),C1(11/10,5800m),C3(17/10,6400m),Smt(19,24/10)
Route Notes BC at normal site (lower than some this autumn) C3 at normal C3. Never used C2; took people training to site of C2 at top of tower & first party tried for top from C1 to normal site of C2 & on 18th got within 150m of top but got very cold (had started at 5 am) & started to get white toes - they hadn't expected this cold weather (Kvale, Palmer & Smith); came down to C1 same day. Others 4 members went up to C3 on 18th & to top on 19th. 2 "Sherpas" left C3 an hour after members; came up because wanted to & meet members just below summit in descent; all down to BC; first trio left BC 22 Oct & on top 24th Oct; left C3 later (8:30 am) than in 1st attempt. First successful party down to C1 19th except Pfetzer & Spitzer, who stayed in C3 because 15-year-old Pfetzer was tired. Burgess actually leader but went into Khumbu a week ahead of others to buy supplies & set up camp & met members in Namche. This planned in advance & made Spitzer leader so he could be in KTM for tourism briefing. Very impressive how smoothly teams mixed together, esp. Kammerlander, Dujmovits & H. Todd met with Burgess to work out what would be done by whom & "it was good to work with professionals" about correctly fixing ropes, e.g. Pfetzer (15 yrs) left expedition as soon as he finished his climb so he could get back to high school - his mother was at BC and he had his text books there too and send them - Pfetzer returned to KTM 27 Oct and said by phone 28 Oct: had left C3 at 9:30 am reached top at 12 noon - "it make great" although route in shade and very cold - plans to go to Everest again in spring '96 (with Henry Todd expedition).
Accidents None
Achievement Youngest summiter (15 years old)
Agency Highland Sherpa
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454885
Year 1995
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alan Burgess M 1948 UK Leader Salt Lake City, Utah Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ace Kvale M 1955 USA Climber Ophir, Colorado Photographer Details Other expeditions
Robert Steven Manthy M 1963 USA Climber Lansing, Michigan Aerospace engineer Details Other expeditions
Alison Palmer F 1961 UK Climber Telluride, Colorado Physiotherapist Details Other expeditions
Mark Pfetzer M 1980 USA Climber Middletown, Rhode Island High school student Details Other expeditions
Anne Lorraine Smith F 1963 USA Climber Ophir, Colorado Marketing expert Details Other expeditions
Travis A. Spitzer M 1971 USA Leader Durango, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Chhedar (John) Lama M - Nepal H-A Worker Upper Makalu-Barun - Details Other expeditions
Lhakpa Bhotia M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions
Phurba Bhotia M - Nepal H-A Worker - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD95304 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 70:284-286 (1996) -
AMAD95304 HIGH - - - 161:31 (Apr 1996) -
AMAD95304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199628402/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Ama-Dablam-and-a-Season-Ending-Storm - - -