Ama Dablam | 1995 SW Ridge
A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 1995 via SW Ridge, led by Alan Burgess. Summit reached on 19th October 1995. 10 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 1561 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | AMAD95304 |
| Peak ID | AMAD |
| Year | 1995 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | USA |
| Leaders | Alan Burgess |
| Sponsor | American Ama Dablam 1995 |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 168,175 |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | UK |
| Approach | - |
| Basecamp Date | 1995-10-07 |
| Summit Date | 1995-10-19 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 12 |
| Total Days | 17 |
| Termination Date | 1995-10-24 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6814 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 7 |
| Summit Members | 7 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 3 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(07/10,4400m),C1(11/10,5800m),C3(17/10,6400m),Smt(19,24/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at normal site (lower than some this autumn) C3 at normal C3. Never used C2; took people training to site of C2 at top of tower & first party tried for top from C1 to normal site of C2 & on 18th got within 150m of top but got very cold (had started at 5 am) & started to get white toes - they hadn't expected this cold weather (Kvale, Palmer & Smith); came down to C1 same day. Others 4 members went up to C3 on 18th & to top on 19th. 2 "Sherpas" left C3 an hour after members; came up because wanted to & meet members just below summit in descent; all down to BC; first trio left BC 22 Oct & on top 24th Oct; left C3 later (8:30 am) than in 1st attempt. First successful party down to C1 19th except Pfetzer & Spitzer, who stayed in C3 because 15-year-old Pfetzer was tired. Burgess actually leader but went into Khumbu a week ahead of others to buy supplies & set up camp & met members in Namche. This planned in advance & made Spitzer leader so he could be in KTM for tourism briefing. Very impressive how smoothly teams mixed together, esp. Kammerlander, Dujmovits & H. Todd met with Burgess to work out what would be done by whom & "it was good to work with professionals" about correctly fixing ropes, e.g. Pfetzer (15 yrs) left expedition as soon as he finished his climb so he could get back to high school - his mother was at BC and he had his text books there too and send them - Pfetzer returned to KTM 27 Oct and said by phone 28 Oct: had left C3 at 9:30 am reached top at 12 noon - "it make great" although route in shade and very cold - plans to go to Everest again in spring '96 (with Henry Todd expedition). |
| Accidents | None |
| Achievement | Youngest summiter (15 years old) |
| Agency | Highland Sherpa |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | False |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2454885 |
| Year | 1995 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
10 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan Burgess | M | 1948 | UK | Leader | Salt Lake City, Utah | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Ace Kvale | M | 1955 | USA | Climber | Ophir, Colorado | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Robert Steven Manthy | M | 1963 | USA | Climber | Lansing, Michigan | Aerospace engineer | Details Other expeditions |
| Alison Palmer | F | 1961 | UK | Climber | Telluride, Colorado | Physiotherapist | Details Other expeditions |
| Mark Pfetzer | M | 1980 | USA | Climber | Middletown, Rhode Island | High school student | Details Other expeditions |
| Anne Lorraine Smith | F | 1963 | USA | Climber | Ophir, Colorado | Marketing expert | Details Other expeditions |
| Travis A. Spitzer | M | 1971 | USA | Leader | Durango, Colorado | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Chhedar (John) Lama | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Upper Makalu-Barun | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Bhotia | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Phurba Bhotia | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AMAD95304 | AAJ | Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 70:284-286 (1996) | - |
| AMAD95304 | HIGH | - | - | - | 161:31 (Apr 1996) | - |
| AMAD95304 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199628402/Asia-Nepal-Pumori-Ama-Dablam-and-a-Season-Ending-Storm | - | - | - |