Ama Dablam | 1994 SW Ridge

A France expedition to Ama Dablam in 1994 via SW Ridge, led by Jean-Jacques Couton. Summit reached on 7th November 1994. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1375
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD94309
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Jean-Jacques Couton
Sponsor Get High Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy, Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-10-30
Summit Date 1994-11-07
Summit Time -
Summit Days 8
Total Days 12
Termination Date 1994-11-11
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/10,4600m),C1(03/11,5800m),C2(05/11,6040m),C3(07/11,6400m),xxx(07/11,6400m)
Route Notes BC at normal site above Mingbo C1 on SW Ridge C2 on SW Ridge High point at C3. 8th Nov to BC because of snowfall (enough to make difficulty on fixed ropes) & wind and very cold (-30 degrees) so didn't want frozen fingers. Mtn always cloudy: mornings clear "like a London smog" so climb finished 8th Nov & all in BC 10 Nov. When leader Couton had to leave climb with Umbauer, leader was Norbu. Ama Dablam is a very technical mountain; "we were all guides (Umbauer is in training to be guide) & still we did not succeed; of course the weather"; perhaps came a bit too late in the season.
Accidents Umbauer blind in one eye at C1 from altitude (Gamov bag used but not helped)
Achievement -
Agency Chuldim Sherpa
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454538
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alexis Chuilhe M 1966 France Climber Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean-Jacques Couton M 1948 France Leader Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maurice Faivre M 1951 France Climber Annecy, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Allessandro Parodi M 1963 Italy Climber Torre-Pellice, Torino, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Philippe Riquier M 1955 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Sylvie Umbauer F 1971 Switzerland Climber Flaxlanden, Alsace, France Ski instructor Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD94309 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:241 (1995) -
AMAD94309 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199524102/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-in-the-Post-Monsoon - - -