Ama Dablam | 1994 NW Ridge (to 5790m )

A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 1994 via NW Ridge (to 5790m ), led by Edward Webster. Summit reached on 23rd October 1994. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1380
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD94304
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1994
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Ridge (to 5790m )
Route 2 N Face of W Col (to 5790m) (Tsuro Ri)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Edward Webster
Sponsor 1994 Ama Dablam NW Ridge Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Canada, Sweden
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-10-07
Summit Date 1994-10-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 31
Termination Date 1994-11-07
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5790m due to deep snow and loose rocks
High Point (m) 5790
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Chhukung Ri
Campsites BC(07/10,4700m),Biv1(20/10,5380m),Biv2(21/10,5555m),Biv3(22/10,5740m),xxx(23/10,5790m);Biv(07/11,5750m)
Route Notes BC at north edge of large lake of Dingboche Biv on NW Ridge Biv on NW Ridge Biv on NW Ridge Biv on North Face of Tsuro Ri under West Col High point at NW Ridge. 1st acclimatized on Chhukung Ri and on Ama Dablam (and had bad throats). Reached 5790m on NW Ridge on 23 Oct and then stopped by danger from loose blocks, deep powder snow and route-finding differences of opinion, whether to continue up ridge or over onto right hard face, so down to BC same day. 7 Nov started on new route after trip to Namche to replace gear left on 1st route in 18 rappels. Second route was much more dangerous from big seracs fall threatening but easier climb on North Face of Tsuro Ri under the West Col. Got to 5750m on 7 Nov, slept 5700m here. That afternoon began to snow and very cold on North Face with no direct sun. On 8th down to BC and climb over. Came week or two too late. "Wonderful reconnaissance of Ama Dablam, fairly expensive though." Would like to try again, so don't want route possibilities publicized.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Cho Oyu Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454523
Year 1994
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw ridge (to 5790m )

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Paul (Wally) Teare M 1959 Canada Climber Tahoe City, California Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Edward Russell (Ed) Webster M 1956 USA Leader Boulder, Colorado Photo journalist, publisher & alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Maria Hannus F 1968 Sweden Member Alingsas, Sweden Ski & trekking guide Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD94304 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 69:241 (1995) -
AMAD94304 HIGH - - - 151:14 (Jun 1995) -
AMAD94304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199524102/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-in-the-Post-Monsoon - - -