Ama Dablam | 1994 SE Face-ESE Ridge

A Russia expedition to Ama Dablam in 1994 via SE Face-ESE Ridge, led by Vladimir Bachkirov. Summit reached on 28th April 1994. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1311
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD94102
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1994
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SE Face-ESE Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Russia
Leaders Vladimir Bachkirov
Sponsor Russian Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 144
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1994-04-10
Summit Date 1994-04-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 18
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(10/04,5300m),Biv1(21/04,5900m),Biv2(22/04,6100m),Biv3(23/04,6200m),Biv4(24/04,6400m),Biv5(25/04,6500m),Biv6(26/04,6700m),Smt(04/28)
Route Notes No fixed camps. First went to see mountain and acclimatize to 6000m on south side for 6 days. Then to Pangboche for rest and returned to BC 20 April to start climb, which began 21 April (with all 4 members climbing together). Bivs close together because very steep route and possible to climb for only 3-4 hours in morning before clouds and falling snow made visibility only 20 meters and necessary to see where to go. To Biv3 55 degrees, above average 50 degrees but sometimes vertical, some places horizontal. Many rock towers; mixed snow and rock. Spent 1 hr on top, saw from Kangchenjunga in east to maybe Annapurna in west. 200m down from top, could see nothing; descended to 6400m and 29th glacier, exhausted; had spent 2 nights at 6th biv because on 27th could not see way above. Had little food left on descent; had only 4 ropes which used only for belaying; climbed in "pure alpine-style." Route rather difficult especially where were unstable seracs or very hard ice, but main problem was weather. Many avalanches: only small ones on this route ("we chose route correctly") but 100m to right big ones.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454345
Year 1994
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) se face-ese ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vladimir Bachkirov M 1952 Russia Leader Korolev (Kaliningrad), Russia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Sergei Bogomolov M 1951 Russia Climber Saratov, Russia Alpinist Details Other expeditions
Dima Botov M 1958 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Construction engineer Details Other expeditions
Sergei Golubtsov M 1960 Russia Climber St. Petersburg (Leningrad), Russia Construction engineer Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD94102 AAJ Bashkirov, Vladimir - - 69:239 (1995) -
AMAD94102 HIGH - - - 144:38 (Nov 1994) -
AMAD94102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199523900/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Southeast-Face - - -