Ama Dablam | 1993 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Ama Dablam in 1993 via SW Ridge, led by Hiroshi Nakamura. Summit reached on 8th January 1994. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1307
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD93404
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1993
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Hiroshi Nakamura
Sponsor Showa Printing Ama Dablam Expedition 1993-94 Winter
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1993-12-29
Summit Date 1994-01-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 10
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6300m due to wind & lack of time
High Point (m) 6300
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 350
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(29/12,4500m),C1(01/01,5800m),C2(06/01,5950m),xxx(08/01,6300m)
Route Notes BC at normal site C2 a biv tent only High point at SW Ridge. Tried summit bid from C2 8th Jan by Kimoto. Left C2 at 3 am and reached 6300m at 7 am, then turned back because very strong wind, down to BC at 2 pm. Route between C1 to C2 very difficult technical rock climbing on sharp ridge and other 3 members very tired from route-making, did not go above C1. Between 1 and 6 Jan had some snowfall: 20 cm at BC, but main problem was wind. No time to make another summit bid; no plan for this. Kimoto spent nights of 6th and 7th Jan at C2 (not really a proper camp but biv tent only) because strong winds on 7th. Weather changed 26th Dec with jet stream wind stronger.
Accidents None
Achievement -
Agency Cosmo Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2454234
Year 1993
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Satoshi Kimoto M 1956 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hiroshi Nakamura M 1951 Japan Leader Sakai, Osaka, Japan Printing company director Details Other expeditions
Ryo Saitoh M 1971 Japan Climber Tokorozawa, Saitama, Japan Engineer Details Other expeditions
Nobuo Tsutsumi M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Construction company president Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD93404 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:216-217 (1994) -
AMAD93404 HIGH - - - 138:16 (May 1994) -
AMAD93404 IWA - - - :236 (1994) -
AMAD93404 IWA - - - :61 (1993) -
AMAD93404 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199421602/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Winter-Ascents-and-Attempt - - -