Ama Dablam | 1993 NW Face

A Slovenia expedition to Ama Dablam in 1993 via NW Face, led by Bojan Pockar. Summit reached on 3rd May 1993. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1230
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD93102
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1993
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NW Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Slovenia
Leaders Bojan Pockar
Sponsor Ama Dablam 1993
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Dingboche
Basecamp Date 1993-04-18
Summit Date 1993-05-03
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 16
Termination Date 1993-05-04
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 5600m due to bad snow conditions on face
High Point (m) 5600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Island Peak to 5900m
Campsites BC(18/04,4700m),xxx(03/05,5600m)
Route Notes BC at Dunro glacier near lake at south end High point at lower part of NW Face. No camps above BC; at first very bad weather (every day snow in afternoon) and went to Island Peak to acclimatize; started up night of 2-3 May and at 4 am began ascent from bottom of NW Face at 4900m; till 13:00 hrs climbed easiest part of wall, of entire wall's 2000m; got to 5600m at 13:00 hrs. From 5600m key problem of face: 400m of steep rock wall and expected hard ice but found thin layer of thin ice and below very soft snow; this area possible only if have proper gear and are expert in this kind of technical climbing, both of which this team lacked (if did have special rock pitons and hammock, would take 3 days to surmount this wall); so abandoned attempt. After 2 hrs of climbing big seracs, avalanche which "almost killed us" (ran from middle of avalanche and smaller pieces only hit climbers" nothing serious but painful"). Only 2-3 avalanches in 14 days; lowest part is dangerous from these avalanches; upper part safe. 3rd May in night returned to BC.
Accidents Small falling seracs caused some pain
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453984
Year 1993
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) nw face

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Stefan Mlinaric M 1969 Slovenia Climber Ljubljana, Slovenia Forester Details Other expeditions
Bojan Pockar M 1963 Slovenia Leader Ljubljana, Slovenia Forester Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD93102 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 68:215 (1994) -
AMAD93102 HIGH - - - 130:8 (Sep 1993) -
AMAD93102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199421502/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Pre-Monsoon-Ascent-and-Attempt - - -