Ama Dablam | 1992 SW Ridge

A Japan expedition to Ama Dablam in 1992 via SW Ridge, led by Yoshiki Sasahara. Summit reached on 6th December 1992. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1198
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD92405
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1992
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 W Face solo up; SW Ridge down
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yoshiki Sasahara
Sponsor Kamoshika Club Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 115,119
Ascent 2 117
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1992-12-02
Summit Date 1992-12-06
Summit Time 1425
Summit Days 4
Total Days 7
Termination Date 1992-12-09
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 200
Total Members 4
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Mera Peak W Face (Yamanoi)
Campsites BC(02/12,4500m),C1(05/12,5500m),C2(06/12,6000m),Smt(06-07/12)
Route Notes Aota left C1 at 6 am and reached top 2:25 pm and down to C1 at about 6 pm; no space for all at top C1 site. On 6th Ono and Sasahara to their own C2 and to summit on 7th: Sasahara at 1:55 and Ono at 2:25 pm and back to C2. These the climbed normal route. Yamamoi from same BC soloed W Face: 5th Dec from BC to bottom of face (which had no snow) at 5200m and sleep in biv here; 6th Dec biv at 6300m at 6 pm after 14 hrs climb up face without rest (big wind but blue sky). 7th Dec to top at 11 am; biv on 6th on SW Ridge and thus on normal route and on 7th he descended normal route to 5700m, where he biv and slept and to BC 8th Dec (Aota to BC 7th, others on 8th). Put fixed rope on normal route but used ropes from autumn (Koreans fixed new rope). On face Yamanoi fixed 4 pitches (50m each pitch) in a climb of 5.9 grade 70 degrees rock and ice. These 4 pitches on rock section marked by X on postcard - a little falling rock on face route but he was not hit; was not wearing helmet because that would obstruct his vision upwards; no falling seracs. Expedition's liaison officier and Koreans saw him climbing face and Onu saw his tracks for 20m on ice below where he joined ridge.
Accidents Yamanoi one frostbitten finger (maybe will lose tip)
Achievement -
Agency Trans Himalayan Trekking (THT)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453835
Year 1992
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Hiroshi Aota M 1958 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Television cameraman Details Other expeditions
Toshio Ono M 1965 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Sports shop salesman Details Other expeditions
Yoshiki Sasahara M 1958 Japan Leader Tokyo, Japan Sports shop manager Details Other expeditions
Yasushi Yamanoi M 1965 Japan Climber Chiba-shi, Chiba, Japan Office worker Details Other expeditions

References

8 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD92405 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 67:212 (1993) -
AMAD92405 JAC Aota, Hiroshi Expedition in Winter to Ama Dablam - 88:128-132 (1993) -
AMAD92405 AAJ - - - 68:215 (1994) -
AMAD92405 HIGH - - - 126:5 (May 1993) -
AMAD92405 IWA - - - :216 (1993) -
AMAD92405 IWA - - - :55-56 (1993) -
AMAD92405 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199421501/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Solo-Winter-Ascent-of-West-Face-1992 - - -
AMAD92405 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199321201/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Winter-Ascents - - -