Ama Dablam | 1991 NE Face (to 6000m)

A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 1991 via NE Face (to 6000m), led by David Breashears. Summit reached on 1st May 1991. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 750
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD91105
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1991
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Face (to 6000m)
Route 2 SW Ridge (to 6600m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders David Breashears
Sponsor Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries France, Switzerland
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1991-04-16
Summit Date 1991-05-01
Summit Time -
Summit Days 15
Total Days 17
Termination Date 1991-05-03
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6600m due to lateness in the day and member's exhaustion
High Point (m) 6600
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites NE-Face.BC(16/04,5087m),xxx(21/04,6000m); SW-Ridge.BC(27/04,4500m),C1(30/04,5950m),xxx(01/05,6600m)
Route Notes 1st BC at base of North Ridge at point 5087m on National Geographic map 2nd BC at Mingbo SW Ridge High point on West Face via SW Ridge by all 4 members. Climbed on the lower part of NE Face 1000m and put in fixed ropes. Then decided seracs had grown since Kennedy and Buhler had been there 1985 and were now too dangerous. So 21 and 23 April decided to abandon route and ask permission to change to SW Ridge. Took down ropes and on 26th April turned around to Mingbo which reached 27th. 30th started up and reached 5950m. 1st May to 6600m at 3:30 pm; couldn't get back to camp if to top that afternoon and clouds building so back to C1 at 8:00 pm. Now very tired and had gotten very high and decided to abandon climb and down to BC on 2nd. Left BC 3rd. Filmed to high point (by David despite illness).
Accidents Breashears hepatitis
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453249
Year 1991
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne face (to 6000m)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
David Finlay Breashears M 1955 USA Leader Newton, Massachusetts Film-maker Details Other expeditions
Laurence Gouault F 1963 France Climber Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Assistant manager of mountaineering-equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Marie Hiroz F 1953 Switzerland Climber Verbier, Valais, Switzerland Ski instructor Details Other expeditions
Stephen Langley Shea M 1944 USA Climber Jackson, Wyoming Shopkeeper, outdoor sports equipment Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD91105 AAJ Breashears, David - - 66:208-209 (1992) -
AMAD91105 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199220805/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-northeast-Face-and-Southwest-Ridge-Attempts - - -