Ama Dablam | 1991 SW Ridge

A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 1991 via SW Ridge, led by Evan Smith. Summit reached on 12th April 1991. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field	Value
ID	747
Imported	2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Peak ID	AMAD
Year	1991
Season	1
Host Country	1
Route 1	SW Ridge
Route 2	-
Route 3	-
Route 4	-
Nationality	USA
Leaders	Evan Smith
Sponsor	1991 American Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1	False
Success 2	False
Success 3	False
Success 4	False
Ascent 1	-
Ascent 2	-
Ascent 3	-
Ascent 4	-
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Countries	-
Approach	-
Basecamp Date	1991-03-24
Summit Date	1991-04-12
Summit Time	-
Summit Days	19
Total Days	20
Termination Date	1991-04-13
Termination Reason	4
Termination Notes	Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather, lack of time
High Point (m)	6400
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Camps	3
Fixed Rope (m)	0
Total Members	9
Summit Members	0
Member Deaths	0
Total Hired	4
Summit Hired	0
Hired Deaths	0
No Hired	False
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Taken	False
O2 Unknown	False
Other Summits	-
Campsites	BC(24/03,4600m),ABC(27/03,5365m),C1(29/03,5840m),C2(10/04,6100m),C3(12/04,6400m),xxx(12/04,6400m)
Route Notes	BC at Mingbo (low site becauase no water above) ABC at traditional site for ABC C1 at traditional site for C1 C2 at traditional site for C2 on SW Ridge C3 at traditional site for C3 at hanging glacier High point at 6400m at C3. 25th March saw begining of 1st of snowstorm with wind that flattened tents at BC and almost decided to go to Pangboche but instead set up mountain tents; this on 25th was worst of the 5 serious storms in night. 31st weather fine, then threatening, then 4:30 pm started snowing heavily and strong wind. 2 members took loads to C2 and had terrible time getting to C1 at 9:30 pm completely exhausted. Then followed more carries to C2 but not occupied/slept in till 10 April because of reported snowfalls. C2 occupied on 16th by Harrington, Moriarty and Falvey of Irish expedition. 11th because very windy high up and Harrington and Falvey down to BC (were cold and exhausted). Finlay and Schifrin up to C2 from C1 while Moriarty stayed at C2 that day and all 4 of Bol American team arrived at C2. 12th much colder yet and all 7 in C2 started up for C3 with good progress initially, but technical problem made movement slow and arrived after 7:00 pm. 13th Bol American members left early going up. Finley not strength to go up. Schifrin ready to summit with Moriarty when Bol American team returned to C3 with decision that impossible to get to top without night out because of difficult ice. So all descended, with Finley and Schifrin to C1 that day in order to clear that camp next day. Cleared away a lot of Thorndike trash while entirely cleared all their own.
Accidents	Nothing serious
Achievement	-
Agency	Mountain Travel
Commercial Route	True
Standard Route	False
Primary Route	False
Primary Member	False
Primary Reference	-
Primary ID	-
Checksum	2453230
Year	1991
Summit Success	False
O2 Summary	None
Route (lowercase)	sw ridge

Members

Field	Value
ID	533
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Member ID	02
Peak ID	AMAD
Year	1991
Season	1
First Name	Mark
Last Name	Butler
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1957
Calculated Age	33
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Yosemite, California
Occupation	National park maintenance worker
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2434117
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mark butler
Year of Birth	1957
Year	1991
Age at Expedition	34
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	534
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Member ID	03
Peak ID	AMAD
Year	1991
Season	1
First Name	Brent
Last Name	Finley
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1958
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Yosemite National Park, California
Occupation	Park ranger
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6400
Summit Date 1	1991-04-12
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	3
Summit Term	12
HCN	0
Checksum	2434509
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	brent finley
Year of Birth	1958
Year	1991
Age at Expedition	33
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	535
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Member ID	04
Peak ID	AMAD
Year	1991
Season	1
First Name	Susan
Last Name	Harrington
Sex	F
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1960
Calculated Age	30
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Wilson, Wyoming
Occupation	Park ranger
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2435206
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	susan harrington
Year of Birth	1960
Year	1991
Age at Expedition	31
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	536
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Member ID	05
Peak ID	AMAD
Year	1991
Season	1
First Name	Michael
Last Name	Murray
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1954
Calculated Age	36
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Kings Canyon, California
Occupation	Park ranger
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2432968
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	michael murray
Year of Birth	1954
Year	1991
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	537
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Member ID	06
Peak ID	AMAD
Year	1991
Season	1
First Name	Benjamin
Last Name	Schifrin
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1954
Calculated Age	36
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Twain Harte, California
Occupation	Physician
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	True
Personal High Point (m)	6400
Summit Date 1	1991-04-12
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	1
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	3
Summit Term	12
HCN	0
Checksum	2433094
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	benjamin schifrin
Year of Birth	1954
Year	1991
Age at Expedition	37
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	538
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Member ID	07
Peak ID	AMAD
Year	1991
Season	1
First Name	Colin
Last Name	Smith
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1959
Calculated Age	31
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Atherton, California
Occupation	Park ranger
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2435037
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	colin smith
Year of Birth	1959
Year	1991
Age at Expedition	32
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	539
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Member ID	01
Peak ID	AMAD
Year	1991
Season	1
First Name	Evan
Last Name	Smith
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1961
Calculated Age	29
Citizenship	USA
Status	Leader
Residence	Menlo Park, California
Occupation	Advertising photographer
Leader	True
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2435643
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	evan smith
Year of Birth	1961
Year	1991
Age at Expedition	30
Role	Leader

Field	Value
ID	540
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Member ID	08
Peak ID	AMAD
Year	1991
Season	1
First Name	Mallory
Last Name	Smith
Sex	F
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1958
Calculated Age	32
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	San Francisco, California
Occupation	National park official
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2434549
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	mallory smith
Year of Birth	1958
Year	1991
Age at Expedition	33
Role	Member

Field	Value
ID	541
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:05.675609
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Member ID	09
Peak ID	AMAD
Year	1991
Season	1
First Name	Richard
Last Name	Stark
Sex	M
Age	0
Birth Date	-
Year of Birth	1931
Calculated Age	59
Citizenship	USA
Status	Climber
Residence	Altos Hills, California
Occupation	Winemaker
Leader	False
Deputy	False
Basecamp Only	False
Not to BC	False
Support	False
Disabled	False
Hired	False
Sherpa	False
Tibetan	False
Summit Success	False
Claimed	False
Disputed	False
Solo	False
Traverse	False
Ski	False
Paraglide	False
Speed	-
High Point (m)	False
Personal High Point (m)	0
Summit Date 1	-
Summit Date 2	-
Summit Date 3	-
Summit Time 1	-
Summit Time 2	-
Summit Time 3	-
Route 1	0
Route 2	0
Route 3	0
Ascent 1	0
Ascent 2	0
Ascent 3	0
O2 Used	False
O2 None	True
O2 Climb	False
O2 Descent	False
O2 Sleep	False
O2 Medical	False
O2 Notes	-
Death	False
Death Date	-
Death Time	-
Death Type	0
Death Height (m)	0
Death Class	0
AMS	False
Weather	False
Injury	False
Injury Date	-
Injury Time	-
Injury Type	0
Injury Height (m)	0
Death Notes	-
Member Notes	-
Necrology	-
Summit Bid	0
Summit Term	0
HCN	0
Checksum	2424746
Summit Note 1	-
Summit Note 2	-
Summit Note 3	-
Death Route	-
Name (lowercase)	richard stark
Year of Birth	1931
Year	1991
Age at Expedition	60
Role	Member

9 recorded members.

Name	Sex	Year of Birth	Citizenship	Status	Residence	Occupation
Mark Butler	M	1957	USA	Climber	Yosemite, California	National park maintenance worker	Details Other expeditions
Brent Finley	M	1958	USA	Climber	Yosemite National Park, California	Park ranger	Details Other expeditions
Susan Harrington	F	1960	USA	Climber	Wilson, Wyoming	Park ranger	Details Other expeditions
Michael Murray	M	1954	USA	Climber	Kings Canyon, California	Park ranger	Details Other expeditions
Benjamin Schifrin	M	1954	USA	Climber	Twain Harte, California	Physician	Details Other expeditions
Colin Smith	M	1959	USA	Climber	Atherton, California	Park ranger	Details Other expeditions
Evan Smith	M	1961	USA	Leader	Menlo Park, California	Advertising photographer	Details Other expeditions
Mallory Smith	F	1958	USA	Climber	San Francisco, California	National park official	Details Other expeditions
Richard Stark	M	1931	USA	Climber	Altos Hills, California	Winemaker	Details Other expeditions

References

Field	Value
ID	2414
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Reference ID	01
Year	1991
Type	2
Journal	AAJ
Author	Hawley, Elizabeth
Title	-
Publisher	-
Publication Date	1992
Language	-
Citation	66:208 (1992)
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

Field	Value
ID	11357
Imported	2026-03-06 18:06:36.307770
Expedition ID	AMAD91103
Reference ID	02
Year	1991
Type	5
Journal	-
Author	-
Title	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199220803/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Southwest-Ridge-Pre-Monsoon
Publisher	-
Publication Date	-
Language	-
Citation	-
Yak 94	-
Notes	-

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID	Journal	Author	Title	Publisher	Citation	Yak 94
AMAD91103	AAJ	Hawley, Elizabeth	-	-	66:208 (1992)	-
AMAD91103	-	-	http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199220803/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Southwest-Ridge-Pre-Monsoon	-	-	-