Ama Dablam | 1990 W Face up; SW Ridge down

A USA expedition to Ama Dablam in 1990 via W Face up; SW Ridge down, led by Chris Warner. Summit reached on 21st December 1990. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 742
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD90404
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1990
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face up; SW Ridge down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality USA
Leaders Chris Warner
Sponsor American Expedition to Ama Dablam
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 83rd
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-12-07
Summit Date 1990-12-21
Summit Time 1115
Summit Days 14
Total Days 15
Termination Date 1990-12-22
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Island Peak
Campsites BC(07/12,4600m),C1(16/12,5250m),Biv1(18/12),Biv2(19/12,6000m),Biv3(20/12,6500m),Smt(21/12)
Route Notes BC at normal site abve Mingbo C1 at base of West Face Biv1 (even with normal C2) Biv2 (lower than normal C3). After establishing BC, went to Island Peak to acclimatize. 18th Dec 2:00 am Warner and Dunmire left C1 for summit: took 4-1/2 hrs going to left of rock band immediately above C1 to reach base of route. Climbed up rib in center of W Face and biv 100ft above big orange rock after pretty steep and unconsolidated rock mixed with bare rock and same ice pitches. Biv at 5:30 pm in platform they carved out of ice and snow. 19th Dec climbed to top of seracs in technical climbing and biv 20th Dec climbed through rock band to right side of Ama Dablam. 21st Dec cold morning and late start about 9:00 am and on top at 11:15 am and on down to C2 at 9:30 pm; no one in C2 but Americans had told about food (lasagna dinners) and fuel they had left there and Italians had suggested use of their big tent. 22nd Dec to BC. Had beautiful weather fixed no ropes. Biv gear included Bible, biv tent and sleeping bags.
Accidents Warner slight frostbite fingers
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Treks (Him Treks)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453117
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face up; sw ridge down

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bryan Blair M 1964 USA Climber - Computer engineer Details Other expeditions
Glenn Eugene Dunmire M 1961 USA Climber Estes Park, Colorado Park ranger Details Other expeditions
Christopher Bernard (Chris) Warner M 1964 USA Leader Ellicott City, Maryland Program coordinator for outdoor-activities school Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD90404 AAJ Warner, Chris - - 65:219 (1991) -
AMAD90404 MM - - - 138:8 (Mar 1991) -
AMAD90404 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121901/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-New-West-Face-Variant-in-Winter - - -