Ama Dablam | 1990 SW Ridge

A New Zealand expedition to Ama Dablam in 1990 via SW Ridge, led by Carol Gordon McDermott. Summit reached on 4th December 1990. 1 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 733
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD90403
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1990
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality New Zealand
Leaders Carol Gordon McDermott
Sponsor -
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 81st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Based out of Thyangboche
Basecamp Date 1990-12-02
Summit Date 1990-12-04
Summit Time -
Summit Days 2
Total Days 3
Termination Date 1990-12-05
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 1
Summit Members 1
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Climbed Island Peak and Lobuche East
Campsites BC(02/12,Thyangboche),C1(03/12,5800m),Smt(04/12),Biv(04/12,6600m)
Route Notes 3rd Dec from Thyangboche to C1 5800m. 4th Dec to summit and biv at 6600m (very cold night with no biv equipment) 5th Dec to Thyangboche. Passed US expedition who were at C1 on 3rd Dec and at C2 on 5th and "had Cadillac expedition"; McDermott was entirely alone from Thyangboche to Thyangboche. Noble and Anker of US expedition stated on 18 Dec 1990: "McDermott spent night of his ascent, 4th Dec in US C2 getting warmed by sleeping between Anker and Bateman; McDermott would have frozen if he hadn't; had big blisters on his toes from frostbite (but not black); was not warmly dressed and had no gear with him at all; had tea in US C1 on his way up mountain; made use of others to do his "solo" climb." Norwegian-Swedish team saw a soloist on summit. Ascent was illegal.
Accidents Minor frostbite only
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453100
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

1 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Carol Gordon McDermott M 1959 New Zealand Leader - - Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD90403 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:219-220 (1991) -
AMAD90403 MM - - - 138:8 (Mar 1991) -
AMAD90403 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121902/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Southwest-Ridge-in-Winter - - -