Ama Dablam | 1990 S Face

A Germany expedition to Ama Dablam in 1990 via S Face, led by Rainer Bolesch. Summit reached on 22nd October 1990. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 678
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD90304
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1990
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face
Route 2 SW Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Germany
Leaders Rainer Bolesch
Sponsor German Ama Dablam Expedition 1990
Success 1 False
Success 2 True
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 75th,76th,79th
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1990-10-07
Summit Date 1990-10-22
Summit Time 1230
Summit Days 15
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1990-10-28
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 2
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(07/10,5050m),Biv1(12/10,5800m),Biv2(15/10,6000m),C3(18/10,6400m),Smt(22-23,27/10)
Route Notes BC at 2 hours above other's BC - at foot of SW Ridge Biv 1 at British C1 Biv 2 at British C2. Had no fixed camps. First, went to S Face from BC to lake due south of face and made depot, while 2 Boleschs climbed to 5700m on face, fixing 300m of rope till noon; now warmth of sun destroyed snow's crust and big danger of avalanches of ice and some rocks. Big ice chunk hit Rainer on arm; all the time small avalanches. Went down to morriane and discussed situation and decided face too dangerous and were too slow climbing to accomplish climb during night time; 60-70 degrees hard rock climbing above and "looks very good" route. Rainer and wife went to British on SW Ridge and asked if could join them and they agreed. All 4 members returned to BC same day. 2 days rest at BC, then took equipment to C1. Peter got sick (flu) and went down to Pangboche. On 15th Oct other 3 members up to British C2 and Rainer worked hard with Harper to fix mushroom ridge which his wife ferried loads from C1. 18th Rainer and others 2 down to BC, where Peter was now, in stormy weather. 21st all moved up again, Peter to C1 and other three to C2. 22nd Peter to C3 (in slightly different site from British) while other three went for summit. Rainer to summit (last 250m steep rock) while other 2 waited for him below and then all 3 descended. Peter remained in C3 but they on down to C1 and one day (22nd). 23rd they to BC while Harper and Jeff and Peter Bolesch up; Peter started at 8:30 am (one hour after 2 British) passed Jeff (who turned back) and reached summit at same time as Harper. Detail of Summit 22 Oct 1990: Mr Rainer Bolesch (leader - German) started from C2 at 6 am and reached the summit at 12:30 pm; stayed on the summit for 10 minutes, took photographs only and later descended to C1 and stayed overnight. Note: Mr Rainer Bolesch had accompanied with his wife Eva Maria Bolesch and Joerg Zengerle from C2 towards the summit on 22 Oct but only Rainer Bolesch had managed to reach the summit and the other two members had waited 250m below the summit for Mr Rainer and later three of them came together to C1 and stayed overnight. 23 Oct 1990 - Mr Peter Bolesch started from C3 at 8:30 am and reached the summit at 11 am, stayed on the summit for 1/2 hour and took photographs and later descended to BC which he finally reached at 5 pm. 26 Oct 1990 - Once again Rainer Bolesch along with his wife Eva Maria Bolesch (German Nurse) and the other climber Joerg Zengerle started from C2 at 6 am and three of them managed to reach the summit at 12:30 pm stayed on the summit for 1/2 hour, took photographs only and later descended to C2 which they reached at 2:30 pm. Note: this was the second time summit for Mr Rainer Bolesch (leader). 27 Oct 1990 - Three members which had stayed on C2 overnight, reached the BC. 28 Oct 1990 - left BC. 01 Nov 1990 - Mr Peter Bolesch and Joerg Zengerle arrive Lukla/KTM.
Accidents Peter Bolesch had fleas
Achievement -
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2453057
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Eva Maria Bolesch F 1964 Germany Climber Puchheim, Bavaria, Germany Nurse Details Other expeditions
Peter (Pit) Bolesch M 1957 Germany Climber Ravensburg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Rainer Bolesch M 1961 Germany Leader Puchheim, Bavaria, Germany Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Joerg Zengerle M 1963 Germany Climber Ravensburg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany Economics student Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD90304 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:217-219 (1991) -
AMAD90304 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121705/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Autumn-Ascents-and-Attempts - - -