Ama Dablam | 1990 SW Ridge

A UK expedition to Ama Dablam in 1990 via SW Ridge, led by Ray Delaney. Summit reached on 4th April 1990. 7 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 416
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD90101
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1990
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Ray Delaney
Sponsor Perpetual Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 73rd,74th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Ireland
Approach Jiri->Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1990-03-13
Summit Date 1990-04-04
Summit Time 1800
Summit Days 22
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 7
Summit Members 4
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Island Peak
Campsites BC(13/03,4600m),C1(15/03,5850m),C2(20/03,6000m),Smt(04,12/04)
Route Notes BC near Mingbo C1 at start of SW Ridge (traditional site) C2 at crest of Yellow Tower (traditional site). Been to BC earlier than 13th March, then went to Island Peak which only Haszko failed to climb. Huge amount of fixed ropes from many years ago as well as recent climbs. 4th April summiters had 7 days climb: 5 up and 2 down: had bad cloudy weather and others saw them towards upper slopes and then disappeared and thought to be dead where as had climbed to top half hour before dark and descended that night to a bivouac in topmost serac band at 20,000 ft. 2nd summit party took 6 days to climb with only 1 day in descent with biv in natural ice cave at start of mushroom ridge. Last biv reached at noon, left at 3:30 am next day and on top 1:30 pm. Very slow because Simpson had hurt his foot 2 days before leaving England, had toothache and sciatica. More difficult climb than Delaney had expected: worrying about route: "descent horrendous abseiling down those rocks."
Accidents Murphy frostbitten toes & Phillips frostnip; Durran failed to acclimatize
Achievement -
Agency Rover Treks
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452856
Year 1990
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

7 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Raymond (Ray) Delaney M 1956 UK Leader Peterborough, Cambridge, England Manager of engineering-equipment shop Details Other expeditions
Robert Durran M 1964 UK Climber Edinburgh, Scotland Mathematics teacher Details Other expeditions
Richard Haszko M 1949 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Teacher Details Other expeditions
Peter Herold M 1964 UK Climber London, England Management consultant Details Other expeditions
Brendan Murphy M 1963 Ireland Climber Purley, Surrey, England Student of computing Details Other expeditions
Kathryn M. (Kate) Phillips F 1964 UK Climber Aylesbury, Buckingham, England Oceanographer Details Other expeditions
Bruce Joseph (Joe) Simpson M 1960 UK Climber Sheffield, S Yorkshire, England Author Details Other expeditions

References

6 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD90101 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 65:217 (1991) -
AMAD90101 AJ Murphy, Brendan Ama Dablam 1990 - 96:8-12 (1991-1992) -
AMAD90101 - Simpson, Joe This Game of Ghosts Mountaineers, Seattle - -
AMAD90101 MM - - - 136:12 (Nov 1990) -
AMAD90101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121704/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam - - -
AMAD90101 - - https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1991-92_files/AJ%201991-92%208-12%20Murphy%20ADablam.pdf - - -