Ama Dablam | 1989 N Face

A Yugoslavia expedition to Ama Dablam in 1989 via N Face, led by Bojan Pockar. Summit reached on 28th October 1989. 3 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 359
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD89301
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1989
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 N Ridge
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Yugoslavia
Leaders Bojan Pockar
Sponsor Ama Dablam NW Face Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-10-12
Summit Date 1989-10-28
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 17
Termination Date 1989-10-29
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6030m due to bad weather
High Point (m) 6030
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 3
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,4700m),Biv(28/10,6030m),xxx(28/10,6030m)
Route Notes BC at 4700m at Duwo Glacier High point on N Ridge. No camps above BC. 2 climbing members together climbed in alpine-style after acclimatization around area (Island peak area, Kalapattar). Started up on 28th Oct for planned series of bivouacs. 28th Oct 6030m from 4900m, start of face. Tried to climb N Face direct but snow conditions very bad so went to via N Couloir to NW Ridge. Impossible to go higher because very soft snow on very steep rock. New route in couloir to ridge. 450m of new route, lower part Yugoslavs same route as Japanese Aut 1980. Steepness up to 85 degrees; no rope fixed; from bottom of face to ridge climbed in 17 hours.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Wilderness Experience
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452697
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

3 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Vanja Anton Furlan M 1966 Yugoslavia Climber Novo Mesto, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Forestry student Details Other expeditions
Bojan Pockar M 1963 Yugoslavia Leader Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Forestry Institute researcher Details Other expeditions
Matjaz Vrtovec M 1949 Yugoslavia Exp Doctor Ljubljana, Slovenia, Yugoslavia Physician (internal medicine) Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD89301 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:223 (1990) -
AMAD89301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199022303/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Post-Monsoon-Ascents-and-Attempt - - -