Ama Dablam | 1989 NE Spur (to 5700m)

A Australia expedition to Ama Dablam in 1989 via NE Spur (to 5700m), led by Michael Groom. Summit reached on 11th May 1989. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 812
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD89103
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 NE Spur (to 5700m)
Route 2 SW Ridge (to 6740m)
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Australia
Leaders Michael Groom
Sponsor Australian Ama Dablam/N Ridge Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries New Zealand
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-04-11
Summit Date 1989-05-11
Summit Time -
Summit Days 30
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6740m due to poor snow conditions
High Point (m) 6740
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(11/04,5100m),xxx(26/04,5700m); BC2(28/04,4850m),C1(29/04,6100m),C2(03/05,6350m),C3(10/05,6500m),xxx(11/05,6740m)
Route Notes BC at Ama Dablam Glacier ENE of mountain BC2 at Churo (normal West Face BC) C1 at normal site from SW Ridge C2 on SW Ridge C3 on SW Ridge High point on West Face of normal route. 26th April reached high point of 5700m on NE spur leading to N Ridge; fixed 250m rope but found route too technical for most members. So abandoned NE on 26th without having any bivouacs or camps on this route and sought permit for SW Ridge and went around to Churo (no water at normal SW route BC and Americans still there). 29th April-3rd May made biv at 6350m at normal C2 site. Only 4 got there: 4 members rested 4-10th May at BC. 9th May up to biv site which really was C2 (3 up to C2, one member stayed at BC). 11th May other 3 members moved onto W Face from SW Ridge. Pickering stopped at 6600m because of altitude sickness/nerves while 2 members carried on up to 6740m at 4:30 pm and then turned around because of late time, snow sugary and called it quits. Too risky on last 60m in sugary snow with only ice seracs. Groom felt cold in his amputated toes and fingers (frostbitten on Kangchenjunga a year and a half ago).
Accidents None; 2 members left early because of home-sickness
Achievement -
Agency Kunga (Nima)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452527
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) ne spur (to 5700m)

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Shane Julian Chamello M 1959 Australia Climber Brisbane, QLD, Australia Exercise phsyiologist Details Other expeditions
John William Coulton M 1956 Australia Exp Doctor Middle Park, Victoria, Australia Physician Details Other expeditions
Paul Gray M 1966 New Zealand Climber Silver Bridle, QLD, New Zealand Plumber Details Other expeditions
Michael Graeme Groom M 1959 Australia Leader Moorooka, QLD, Australia Plumber Details Other expeditions
Christopher Paul (Chris) Hawthorne M 1960 Australia Climber Brisbane, QLD, Australia Director of medical-equipment distributor Details Other expeditions
Stanley (Stan) Pickering M 1944 Australia Climber Tweeds Heads, NSW, Australia Ceramic tiler Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD89103 AAJ Hawley, Elizabeth - - 64:223 (1990) -
AMAD89103 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199022302/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Attempts - - -