Ama Dablam | 1989 SW Ridge

A UK expedition to Ama Dablam in 1989 via SW Ridge, led by William (Bill) O`Connor. Summit reached on 12th April 1989. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 815
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD89101
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1989
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders William (Bill) O`Connor
Sponsor 25th Anniversary Mountain Travel Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1989-03-24
Summit Date 1989-04-12
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 21
Termination Date 1989-04-14
Termination Reason 10
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to route difficulty, lack strong commitment and time
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(24/03,5000m),C1(27/03,5800m),C2(09/04,6100m),xxx(12/04,6400m)
Route Notes BC at high site above Mingbo airstrip C1 on SW Ridge C2 at 2nd tower on ridge High point at Mushroom ridge. No fixed ropes or pitons to be found in place from previous expedition to end of Mushroom Ridge (C3) because they are constantly cleared by Sherpas. A lot of snow at BC area but ridge looked reasonably clear. All up to C1 on 28th (O'Connor and Sherpas day before), stayed 29th again C1 also while O'Connor and Sherpas fixed ropes above to the Pinnacle with little snow on ridge; fixed rope to Yellow Tower and made a dump before Yellow Tower where some expeditions place a C2. Put this team's C2 atop the next tower on 30th, but down to C1 same day. 31st snow started falling and down to BC. Snowed all next day and night and 2 members decided to leave BC for villages to let weather clear, but didn't clear for 4 days. Back up through deep snow returning to base on 5th April, where was 2 ft of snow, with winds clearing snow off the ridge. On 6th started making track above BC; got to C1 on 7th. 9th C2 occupied, 10th tried to reach C3 without success (O'Connor ill). Dead body (Charles Eckenfelder) found just above C2 (Spring 1988 Canadian). 11th O'Connor to C2 while others again up with rock falling and morale low. 12th O'Connor, Selzman and 2 Sherpas went up the couloir and beyond other's high point of 2 previous days and on along Mushroom Ridge in stone fall period to very close to C3 site and ran out of rope (Sherpas by now had stopped coming up). Pretty steep green ice and more of it above which would take 2 days to fix and party not skilled enough to make ropeless fast ascent. So time running out, morale weak and skill insufficent for going for it without fixing. Anyway next day it snowed though could have carried on, but "team had run out of steam." In descent Selzman rode a rock 60-70 ft in a rock slide.
Accidents Nothing serious
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452453
Year 1989
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alan Lees M 1951 UK Climber London, England Computer technician Details Other expeditions
William H. (Bill) O'Connor M 1947 UK Leader Harrogate, N Yorkshire, England Alpine guide, photographer & writer Details Other expeditions
Craig Selzman M 1966 USA Climber Houston, Texas Medical student Details Other expeditions
Dwain Stranahan M 1954 USA Climber Wilsall, Montana Cattle rancher Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD89101 AAJ O'Connor, William - - 64:222 (1990) -
AMAD89101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199022202/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Attempt - - -