Ama Dablam | 1988 SW Ridge

A Canada expedition to Ama Dablam in 1988 via SW Ridge, led by Stephen Robert Langley. Summit reached on 15th April 1988. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 70
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD88102
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1988
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Canada
Leaders Stephen Robert Langley
Sponsor Canadian Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1988-03-23
Summit Date 1988-04-15
Summit Time -
Summit Days 23
Total Days 25
Termination Date 1988-04-17
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6520m due to avalanching
High Point (m) 6520
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 1
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(25/03,4900m),C1(29/03,5760m),C2A(03/04,5940m),C2B(06/04,6000m),C3(14/04,6300m),xxx(15/04,6520m)
Route Notes BC at 100 ft lower then US women's site - near yak C1 at 5760m at higher of normal C1 site C2A on small hanging glacier C2B at 6000m top of red tower C3 at 6300m at traditional site High point just below huge hanging glacier. Everything going very well in early days. 9th April all 6 members in 2nd C2 and carried 1st load to C3 beyond mushrooms and all other major hurdles and at foot of 45-degree slope; feeling tremendously optimistic. Eckenfelder and Langley carried the load and fixed an ice step. During their descent from C3 site accident occurred. Eckenfelder while going up had knocked down some rocks which must have cut rope; Eckenfelder in front coming down the Perlon 8 mm: presumably he went round a corner and his weight at a place where ropes was 80% cut caused complete break. No one saw him fall but body seen 500-600 ft below; when a member reached it, head had been completely severed and death must have been instantaneous (at 4:00 pm). Snowing now and all next day and body became covered so team never returned to it, it is 500 ft off of route. On 11th all down from C2 to BC with plan Dickey and Langley would resume climb. 13th Dickey and Langley went from BC to C2 and fixed new ropes around C2 and to C3. 14th to C3. 15th did recce crevasses and fixed ropes but avalanching dangerous and decided to abandon; reached BC after dark. Snowfall continued daily after left BC on 17th. A body found by UK-US expedition in April 1989 in the couloir between C2 and C3 below the Gap, before start of 1st step - completely exposed, looking very fresh (snow had preserved him?).
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2452090
Year 1988
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Thomas Lee (Tom) Dickey M 1957 USA Climber Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Charlie Eckenfelder M 1954 Canada Climber Chelsea, Quebec Dentist Details Other expeditions
Stephen Robert (Steve) Langley M 1948 Canada Leader Calgary, Alberta President, computer consultancy company Details Other expeditions
Roderick Macintosh M 1957 Canada Climber Calgary, Alberta Geologist Details Other expeditions
Geoffrey (Geoff) Powter M 1957 Canada Deputy Leader Calgary, Alberta Psychologist Details Other expeditions
Peter Roxburgh M 1933 Canada Exp Doctor Calgary, Alberta Psychiatrist Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD88102 AAJ Langley, Stephen - - 63:195-196 (1989) -
AMAD88102 HJ Whitehouse, Annie & Langley, Steve Ama Dablam Expeditions - 45:163-167 (1987-1988) -
AMAD88102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198919504/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Attempt-and-Tragedy - - -
AMAD88102 - - https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/45/22/expeditions-and-notes-45/ - - -