Ama Dablam | 1986 S Face (to right of Yugoslav rte)

A France expedition to Ama Dablam in 1986 via S Face (to right of Yugoslav rte), led by Roger Massardier. Summit reached on 10th December 1986. 4 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 247
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD86401
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1986
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 S Face (to right of Yugoslav rte)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Roger Massardier
Sponsor Lyon and Avignon Winter Expedition Nepal 1986-87 to Ama Dablam
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1986-11-23
Summit Date 1986-12-10
Summit Time -
Summit Days 17
Total Days 20
Termination Date 1986-12-13
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6100m due to wind, heavy snowfall
High Point (m) 6100
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 1000
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Had permit for Cholatse (CHOL-864-01)
Campsites BC(23/11,4950m),ABC(04/12,5250m),C1(06/12,5500m),xxx(10/12,6100m)
Route Notes BC at normal site for South Ridge above Mingbo ABC near lake at bottom of South Face C1 under 1st crevasse at bottom of South Face High point on South Face. Hoped to make C2 on South Face at about 6100-6200m in route directly up face to summit. Hoped to reach a small span (snow ridge) and put tent there since no place to camp on face at this altitude because very steep (50-80 degrees) but wind drove them back, broke tent at C1. Down to BC then on 12 Dec up again but again wind broke C1 tent and snowfall followed 13th evening. Lot of snow on 14th and 15th so abandoned idea of attempting Cholatse as well. Fixed 1000m on face. Should have made alpine-style ascent in fast climb. A good route.
Accidents Massardier fell just above BC on unstable rocks of moriane & broke both the legs on Nov 30; no other problems
Achievement -
Agency Sherpa Trekking Service (STS)
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451596
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) s face (to right of yugoslav rte)

Members

4 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Bruno Guibert M 1958 France Climber Avignon, Vaucluse, France Photographer Details Other expeditions
Roger Massardier M 1958 France Leader St. Fons, Rhone, France Veterinarian Details Other expeditions
Bruno Rebelle M 1958 France Climber La Chapelle-en-Vercors, Drome, France Veterinarian Details Other expeditions
Corine Rebelle-Frere F 1959 France Exp Doctor La Chapelle-en-Vercors, Drome, France Physician Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD86401 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:228 (1987) -
AMAD86401 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722803/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Winter-Attempt - - -