Ama Dablam | 1986 SW Ridge
A Switzerland expedition to Ama Dablam in 1986 via SW Ridge, led by Pierre-Antoine Hiroz. Summit reached on 22nd October 1986. 6 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 922 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | AMAD86303 |
| Peak ID | AMAD |
| Year | 1986 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | SW Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Switzerland |
| Leaders | Pierre-Antoine Hiroz |
| Sponsor | Swiss Expedition to Ama Dablam |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 52nd,53rd |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | France |
| Approach | Khumbu Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1986-10-07 |
| Summit Date | 1986-10-22 |
| Summit Time | 0900 |
| Summit Days | 15 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6814 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 2 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 6 |
| Summit Members | 6 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 1 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(07/10,4600m),C1(09/10,5300m),C2(14/10,5800m),Smt(22,26/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at Mingbo C1 at very bottom of ridge C2 on first shoulder of South Ridge. Made no C3 because too heavy to carry up tent, etc. and better to go very light and faster; before summit push spent few days at BC resting and eating. 21 Oct from BC to C2 directly (was 3 summiters of 22 Oct). 22 Oct at 1:00 am began climb to summit in early of full moonlight so as to return to C2 before dark; were on top at 9:00 am in good weather although very cold and windy and back in C2 at 4:00 pm; technically very difficult with much snow on mountain like sugar (not powder) and very steep rock steps. Were in BC 23rd night and Dutrievoz left BC 24 Oct to Lukla. |
| Accidents | No problems as of Oct 24, when Dutrievoz left BC; no problems later |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | Lama |
| Commercial Route | True |
| Standard Route | False |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451547 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | sw ridge |
Members
6 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stephane Borgeaud | M | 1961 | Switzerland | Climber | Monthey, Valais, Switzerland | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Pierre Dutrievoz | M | 1960 | France | Climber | Bourg St. Maurice, Savoie, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Guy Formaz | M | 1938 | Switzerland | Climber | Praz-de-Fort, Valais, Switzerland | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Marie Hiroz | F | 1953 | Switzerland | Climber | Verbier, Valais, Switzerland | Teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Pierre-Antoine Hiroz | M | 1961 | Switzerland | Leader | Levron, Valais, Switzerland | Forestry worker | Details Other expeditions |
| Yves Rausis | M | 1954 | Switzerland | Climber | Verbier, Valais, Switzerland | Teacher, boys school | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AMAD86303 | AAJ | Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth | - | - | 61:228 (1987) | - |
| AMAD86303 | MM | - | - | - | 113:8 (Jan 1987) | - |
| AMAD86303 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722802/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam | - | - | - |