Ama Dablam | 1986 W Face up; SW Ridge-S Face down

A Czechoslovakia expedition to Ama Dablam in 1986 via W Face up; SW Ridge-S Face down, led by Miroslav Smid. Summit reached on 11th October 1986. 11 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 918
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD86301
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1986
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face up; SW Ridge-S Face down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Czechoslovakia
Leaders Miroslav Smid
Sponsor ADR Rocks Expedition Ama Dablam
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 47th,49th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Switzerland, W Germany
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1986-09-22
Summit Date 1986-10-11
Summit Time 1130
Summit Days 19
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 11
Summit Members 3
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/09,4600m),Biv1(09/10,5250m),Biv2(10/10,6450m),Biv3(11/10,6812m),Biv4(12/10,6150m),Smt(11,18/10)
Route Notes BC at 4600m normal South Ridge BC site at Mingbo Biv 1 at 5250m Biv 2 at 6450m Biv 3 at 6812m at summit Biv 4 at 6150m on South Face. No fixed camps above BC: alpine-style climb. After 22nd went to see best line on face and how to approach face; found Peter Hillary had best way and from his ABC [used] a little of his fixed rope. 2:00 am 10th Oct Smid started climb alone at 5250m and biv at 6450m at 4:00 pm. 11th in 3 hrs climb reached top 11:30 am in snowstorm (could see nothing) and spent night there for photos early next morning. 12th descended to S Ridge with only short rope and 2 pitons and no one else on ridge in "terrible" descent and biv at 6150m on S Face (70m below ridge on face). 13th snow and rock face to snow slopes of face to bottom of face where at 10:00 am reached Yugoslavian BC and to own BC same day. Only Koch twisted ankle bouldering at BC and went home. 2 Swiss summiters together did slightly different climb: broken red line up and down to join Yugoslav S Face route (down Yugoslav fixed rope). Bivouacked at Smid's 1st Biv and then had their own 2nd biv at 6300m.
Accidents Koch twisted ankle bouldering at BC (returned home)
Achievement 1st Czechoslovakian ascent
Agency Mountain Travel
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451536
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face up; sw ridge-s face down

Members

11 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Michal Brunner M 1959 Czechoslovakia Climber Brno, Czechoslovakia Student Details Other expeditions
Franco Giorgetta M 1961 Switzerland Climber Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Rudolf (Ruedi) Homberger M 1940 Switzerland Deputy Leader Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland Photographer Details Other expeditions
Christian Jaeggi M 1956 Switzerland Climber Basel, Switzerland Mechanic Details Other expeditions
Willi Kuhn M 1961 Switzerland Climber Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland Ski patrolman Details Other expeditions
Vreni Kull F 1955 Switzerland Climber Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland Photographer Details Other expeditions
Karel Jerhot M 1945 Czechoslovakia Climber Prague, Czechoslovakia Worker on tall buildings Details Other expeditions
Miroslav Mzourek M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Teplice, Czechoslovakia Glass technician Details Other expeditions
Josef Rybicka M 1952 Czechoslovakia Climber Bohosudov, Czechoslovakia Painter Details Other expeditions
Miroslav Smid M 1952 Czechoslovakia Leader Police nad Metuji, Czechoslovakia Photographer Details Other expeditions
Guenter Koch M 1949 W Germany Climber Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Businessman Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD86301 AAJ Smid, Miroslav - - 61:228 (1987) -
AMAD86301 - Smid, Miroslav Ze Zivota Horolezce Olympia, Prague - S605
AMAD86301 MM - - - 113:8 (Jan 1987) -
AMAD86301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722801/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-West-Face - - -