Ama Dablam | 1986 W Face up; SW Ridge-S Face down
A Czechoslovakia expedition to Ama Dablam in 1986 via W Face up; SW Ridge-S Face down, led by Miroslav Smid. Summit reached on 11th October 1986. 11 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 918 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | AMAD86301 |
| Peak ID | AMAD |
| Year | 1986 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | W Face up; SW Ridge-S Face down |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | Czechoslovakia |
| Leaders | Miroslav Smid |
| Sponsor | ADR Rocks Expedition Ama Dablam |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 47th,49th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | Switzerland, W Germany |
| Approach | Khumbu Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1986-09-22 |
| Summit Date | 1986-10-11 |
| Summit Time | 1130 |
| Summit Days | 19 |
| Total Days | 0 |
| Termination Date | - |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6814 |
| Traverse | True |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 0 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 11 |
| Summit Members | 3 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 0 |
| Summit Hired | 0 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | True |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | False |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(22/09,4600m),Biv1(09/10,5250m),Biv2(10/10,6450m),Biv3(11/10,6812m),Biv4(12/10,6150m),Smt(11,18/10) |
| Route Notes | BC at 4600m normal South Ridge BC site at Mingbo Biv 1 at 5250m Biv 2 at 6450m Biv 3 at 6812m at summit Biv 4 at 6150m on South Face. No fixed camps above BC: alpine-style climb. After 22nd went to see best line on face and how to approach face; found Peter Hillary had best way and from his ABC [used] a little of his fixed rope. 2:00 am 10th Oct Smid started climb alone at 5250m and biv at 6450m at 4:00 pm. 11th in 3 hrs climb reached top 11:30 am in snowstorm (could see nothing) and spent night there for photos early next morning. 12th descended to S Ridge with only short rope and 2 pitons and no one else on ridge in "terrible" descent and biv at 6150m on S Face (70m below ridge on face). 13th snow and rock face to snow slopes of face to bottom of face where at 10:00 am reached Yugoslavian BC and to own BC same day. Only Koch twisted ankle bouldering at BC and went home. 2 Swiss summiters together did slightly different climb: broken red line up and down to join Yugoslav S Face route (down Yugoslav fixed rope). Bivouacked at Smid's 1st Biv and then had their own 2nd biv at 6300m. |
| Accidents | Koch twisted ankle bouldering at BC (returned home) |
| Achievement | 1st Czechoslovakian ascent |
| Agency | Mountain Travel |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2451536 |
| Year | 1986 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | w face up; sw ridge-s face down |
Members
11 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Michal Brunner | M | 1959 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Brno, Czechoslovakia | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Franco Giorgetta | M | 1961 | Switzerland | Climber | Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland | Carpenter | Details Other expeditions |
| Rudolf (Ruedi) Homberger | M | 1940 | Switzerland | Deputy Leader | Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Christian Jaeggi | M | 1956 | Switzerland | Climber | Basel, Switzerland | Mechanic | Details Other expeditions |
| Willi Kuhn | M | 1961 | Switzerland | Climber | Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland | Ski patrolman | Details Other expeditions |
| Vreni Kull | F | 1955 | Switzerland | Climber | Arosa, Graubunden, Switzerland | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Karel Jerhot | M | 1945 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Prague, Czechoslovakia | Worker on tall buildings | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslav Mzourek | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Teplice, Czechoslovakia | Glass technician | Details Other expeditions |
| Josef Rybicka | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Climber | Bohosudov, Czechoslovakia | Painter | Details Other expeditions |
| Miroslav Smid | M | 1952 | Czechoslovakia | Leader | Police nad Metuji, Czechoslovakia | Photographer | Details Other expeditions |
| Guenter Koch | M | 1949 | W Germany | Climber | Munich, Bavaria, W Germany | Businessman | Details Other expeditions |
References
4 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AMAD86301 | AAJ | Smid, Miroslav | - | - | 61:228 (1987) | - |
| AMAD86301 | - | Smid, Miroslav | Ze Zivota Horolezce | Olympia, Prague | - | S605 |
| AMAD86301 | MM | - | - | - | 113:8 (Jan 1987) | - |
| AMAD86301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722801/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-West-Face | - | - | - |