Ama Dablam | 1986 W Face up; SW Ridge down

A W Germany expedition to Ama Dablam in 1986 via W Face up; SW Ridge down, led by Hans Eitel. Summit reached on 15th April 1986. 10 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 951
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD86102
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face up; SW Ridge down
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality W Germany
Leaders Hans Eitel
Sponsor Lampertheimer Himalaya-Expedition Nepal 1986
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 46th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Austria, Italy, USA
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1986-03-30
Summit Date 1986-04-15
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 16
Total Days 18
Termination Date 1986-04-17
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 10
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Kangtega (KTEG-861-01) (by 8 members)
Campsites BC(30/03,4700m),C1(08/04,5100m),C2(09/04,5600m),Smt(15/04)
Route Notes BC at Mingbo by Brugger & Walde and kitchen staff C1 at moraine at bottom of Face (no tent - rock shelter) C2 at behind serac at start of face. 2 men went direct to Ama Dablam and other 8 arrived at BC 9 April. Started on Hillary route. Was little snow, mostly climbed on rocks to left side of hanging glacier, over serac line. On 15 April at 2:00 am Brugger and Walde began summit push from C2 and got to top at 11:00 am and descended normal route on South Ridge to 5700m (British team's C1) and slept there. 16 April 8:00 am returned to BC. Difficult rock at 65-degree steepness (short sections 70 degrees). Eitel and Santer went to C2 only, others BC only; these 8 left BC 12 April. On 10 April descended to BC for rest. On 14 April went from BC to C2 in 2-1/4 hours.
Accidents None
Achievement Fastest ascent of Ama Dablam
Agency Asian Trekking
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451357
Year 1986
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face up; sw ridge down

Members

10 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Alois Brugger M 1959 Italy Climber Ahrntal, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Hans Volker Eitel M 1945 W Germany Leader Heidelberg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, W Germany Sports shop manager Details Other expeditions
Georg Fernsebner M 1957 Austria Climber Mayrhofen, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gretel Friedrich F 1938 W Germany Climber Lampertheim, Hesse, W Germany Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Heinrich Friedrich M 1940 W Germany Climber Lampertheim, Hesse, W Germany Shopkeeper Details Other expeditions
Hubert Hell M 1957 Austria Climber Uderns, Tirol, Austria Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Benjamin Santer M 1955 USA Climber Norwich, England Climatologist Details Other expeditions
Hermann Schiller M 1951 Austria Climber Zell am Ziller, Tirol, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions
Walter Steiner M 1941 Austria Climber Munich, Bavaria, W Germany Electrical engineer Details Other expeditions
Kurt Walde M 1962 Italy Climber Brunico, Bolzano, Italy Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD86102 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 61:230 (1987) -
AMAD86102 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198723002/Asia-Nepal-Kangtega-Attempt-and-Ama-Dablam-Ascent - - -