Ama Dablam | 1986 SW Ridge

A UK expedition to Ama Dablam in 1986 via SW Ridge, led by Iain Allen. Summit reached on 20th April 1986. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 948
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD86101
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1986
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Iain Allen
Sponsor Kenya Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Australia, Kenya, USA
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1986-03-31
Summit Date 1986-04-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 20
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to cold afternoon snow and severe climb
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 3
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(31/03,4555m),ABC(04/04,5000m),C1(08/04,5760m),C2(15/04,5940m),C3(19/04,62250m),xxx(20/04,6400m)
Route Notes BC at 4555m at near Mingbo by Horner and Stevenson (who arrived at mountain before the others) ABC at bottom of the ridge C1 on S Ridge C2 on S Ridge C3 at top of S Ridge at big mushroom. 20 April all members except Kleppinger started up at 6:30 am but wind was so cold returned to camp and waited for sun's warmth; started again at about 10:00 am but still cold wind which cleared ice sheet of all snow meant climb on this steep (70 degrees) section was too much for them. Spent night again at C3 and then down in deteriorating weather with snow every afternoon. Epic getting off mountain's snow and ice covering rock ridge. Rock itself between C2 and C3 very rough.
Accidents Kleppinger had constant stomach problems & never got beyond C1
Achievement -
Agency Himalayan Journeys
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2451362
Year 1986
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Iain Allan M 1948 Kenya Leader Nairobi, Kenya Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Skip Horner M 1947 USA Climber Folsom, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Ian Howell M 1936 UK Deputy Leader Nairobi, Kenya Computer expert Details Other expeditions
Alastair R. L. Stevenson M 1949 Australia Climber North Sydney, NSW, Australia Dental surgeon Details Other expeditions
Bruce Kleppinger M 1940 USA Climber Albany, California Alpine guide Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD86101 AAJ Horner, Skip - - 61:227-228 (1987) -
AMAD86101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722703/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Attempt - - -