Ama Dablam | 1984 SW Ridge

A UK expedition to Ama Dablam in 1984 via SW Ridge, led by Alan Burgess. Summit reached on 16th December 1984. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1604
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD84402
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1984
Season 4
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality UK
Leaders Alan Burgess
Sponsor Canadian Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries USA
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1984-11-30
Summit Date 1984-12-16
Summit Time -
Summit Days 16
Total Days 20
Termination Date 1984-12-20
Termination Reason 4
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6400m due to bad weather and shortage of supplies
High Point (m) 6400
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 4
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(30/11,4600m),C1(01/12,5800m),Biv(04/12,6100m),xxx(16/12,6400m)
Route Notes C1 was assault camp from which tried alpine-style ascent; just dry walk to C1. Took 4 days food on 3rd Dec (all 3 members and Pema Dorje) to C1. 4th all 4 up to C2 site of other expedition on ridge and bived at Yellow Tower at 20,000 ft after lot of horizontal climbing on rock. 5th all 4 set out to climb 2nd tower to get serac plateau, but in winter short day realized couldn't get to plateau, no campsite short of it (moving too slowly because Pema Dorje not competent enough), so returned to C2 and 6th to BC. Went to Pheriche for fixed rope to put in above C2 and on 13th 3 foreigners to C1; that evening snowed. 15th 3 men to C2 with rope quickly. 15th fixed rope to 21,000 ft to beginning of knife-edge ridge and thus short of C3 site, so down to C2 intending to summit on 18th but wind got worse and after 3 nights in C2 running out of food and big clouds coming in, so down to BC on 19th. Winds blowing chunks of rock, it was so strong.
Accidents No accidents, frostbite or serious illness
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450870
Year 1984
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Adrian (Aid) Burgess M 1948 UK Climber Boulder, Colorado Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Alan Burgess M 1948 UK Leader Calgary, Alberta Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Craig Ballenger M 1956 USA Climber Mt. Shasta, California & Vavenby, British Columbia Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Lorna Burgess F 1954 USA Member - Attorney Details Other expeditions
Pema Dorje Sherpa M 1958 Nepal H-A Worker Khumjung, Khumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD84402 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 59:273 (1985) -
AMAD84402 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198527303/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Attempt - - -