Ama Dablam | 1983 SW Ridge

A Austria expedition to Ama Dablam in 1983 via SW Ridge, led by Arthur Haid. Summit reached on 21st April 1983. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1515
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD83101
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1983
Season 1
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Arthur Haid
Sponsor Tirolean Ama Dablam Expedition 1983
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 21st
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1983-04-02
Summit Date 1983-04-21
Summit Time 1930
Summit Days 19
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 3
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 1
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(02/04,4550m),C1(02/04,5030m),C2(05/04,5750m),C3(12/04,6000m),Smt(21/04)
Route Notes Haid and Krismer started from C3 at 7:30 am 21 April and reached summit at 19:30 hrs as sun was going down. Bivouacked on summit for 12 hrs because too dangerous to go down in dark - very cold (-25 to -30 degrees). Made crude snow cave and stayed awake shivering all night. Took pictures when sun came up and 8:00 am started down; reached [C3] 13:00 hrs on 22nd where slept; 23rd to BC. No time for other summit attempt afterwards by other 2 members who had actually gone up for try before Haid and Krismer. They went as far as C2 and then had to descend because of snowstorm (doctor adds that he was struck by lightning during storm). Much snowfall after 12th, again 18th so some delay but strong winds blew away snow that would fall, were in hurry to finish climb. Also had no extra time left with 45-day air tickets.
Accidents Haid has frostbitten toes on both feet but may lose nothing [actually lost seven toes]; Krismer none; both walked from BC to Lukla; Haid thinks frostbite not from summit but tight boots
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2450264
Year 1983
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Arthur Haid M 1937 Austria Leader Imst, Tirol, Austria Bus driver Details Other expeditions
Stephan Krismer M 1956 Austria Climber Pitztal, Tirol, Austria Technician Details Other expeditions
Theodor Ljubanovic M 1941 Austria Exp Doctor Zams, Tirol, Austria Physician Details Other expeditions
Johann (Hans) Penz M 1939 Austria Climber Imst, Tirol, Austria Policeman Details Other expeditions
Gernot Pollhammer M 1952 Austria Climber Imst, Tirol, Austria Manager of an ambulance station Details Other expeditions

References

3 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD83101 AAJ Haid, Arthur - - 58:235 (1984) -
AMAD83101 MM - - - 92:9 (Jul 1983) -
AMAD83101 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423502/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam - - -