Ama Dablam | 1981 N Ridge

A Japan expedition to Ama Dablam in 1981 via N Ridge, led by Yutaka Watai. Summit reached on 23rd October 1981. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1803
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD81302
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1981
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yutaka Watai
Sponsor Himalaya Expedition of Fujinomiya Alpine Club
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach -
Basecamp Date 1981-10-12
Summit Date 1981-10-23
Summit Time -
Summit Days 11
Total Days 16
Termination Date 1981-10-28
Termination Reason 8
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to lack of food followed by bad weather
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 0
Fixed Rope (m) 200
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(12/10,5200m),ABC(15/10,5365m),Biv1(21/10,5600m),Biv2(22/10,5800m),Biv3(23/10,6000m),xxx(25/10,6000m)
Route Notes Kobayashi - 3 Nov 81 6000m reached; reached French or New Zealand high camp and about 2 pitches higher on North Ridge. BC 5200m 12 Oct established ABC (5365m) made 15 Oct but no one stayed in it. No permanent camp above BC; 3 snowholes 5600m on 21 Oct, 5800m on 22 Oct and 6000m on 23 Oct; all snowholes made by all members climbing together. Then food finished, all down to 5600m. Kobayashi goes down with leader leaving other 3 to carry food up on 25 Oct. Then 2 days bad weather and 3 stayed in 5600m and 27th down to BC 27th all down in BC and expedition finished. 2 members must go back to Japan. Route may difficult and all climbing equipment finished. Route more difficult than expected above ABC: snow wall and snow ridge very difficult needing more fixed rope and pitch than expected and supply ran out. Kobayashi down on 25th with frostbitten toes both feet (will heal, not black). Other members well, no frostbite, no accidents. Others now in Lukla waiting for plane; maybe in KTM 7 Nov. Katoh - 23 Sept 81 Leave 26 or 27 Sept by charter to Lukla. Arrived BC about 5 Oct via Chhukung and Ama Dablam Glacier. BC at 5000m on Ama Dablam Glacier. Route = South-North Ridge, same as French 1979, New Zealand 1980 and Australia 1981. 1 fixed camp at about 6000m 15-20 days on summit after arrive BC No climbing Sherpas and no oxygen at all Above 6000m most difficult requiring some fixed rope. Have 200m fixed rope - 45 degree slope and don't want to use rope but maybe will need to use some. Muraoka - 17 Sept 81 Route = North Ridge = '80 autumn New Zealand leader and 3 arrived today. Leave KTM early next week on foot in 3 weeks to BC acclimatization on small peaks en route. BC about 5200m on Ama Dablam Glacier. Route include very steep wall. Hope to climb alpine-style but depends on condition of ridge. Maybe need 3 fixed camps with C2 at 6500m, C1 5900m, perhaps no Sherpas above BC. No oxygen at all. The Himalaya Expedition of Fujinomiya Alpine Club About 12 days climbing period BC - summit Will ask HMG for extension of permit into November.
Accidents Kobayashi had frostbite on his toes
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449717
Year 1981
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Ryoichi Awamura M 1951 Japan Climber Sendai, Miyagi, Japan Reporter for Kyodo Details Other expeditions
Saburo Kato M 1944 Japan Climbing Leader Fujimomiya, Shizuoka, Japan Engineer in steel factory Details Other expeditions
Kujihiko Kobayashi M 1957 Japan Climber Fujimomiya, Shizuoka, Japan Engineer for Nissan motorcar company Details Other expeditions
Yukio Muraoka M 1949 Japan Climber Sakata, Yamagata, Japan Travel agent Details Other expeditions
Yutaka Watai M 1936 Japan Leader Fujimomiya, Shizuoka, Japan Insurance salesman Details Other expeditions

References

5 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD81302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth - - 56:212 (1982) -
AMAD81302 MM - - - 83:10 (Jan 1982) -
AMAD81302 IWA - - - 88:187 (1982) -
AMAD81302 IWA - - - 88:43 (1982) -
AMAD81302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198221201/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Attempt - - -