Ama Dablam | 1980 N Face

A Japan expedition to Ama Dablam in 1980 via N Face, led by Yasuji Kato. Summit reached on 8th November 1980. 6 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 1874
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD80302
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1980
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 N Face
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Japan
Leaders Yasuji Kato
Sponsor Tokyo Himalayan Expedition
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 11th-13th
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1980-10-01
Summit Date 1980-11-08
Summit Time -
Summit Days 38
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 2
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 6
Summit Members 6
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits Attempted Kusum Kangru (KUSU-803-01)
Campsites BC(01/10,4700m),TempC1(10/10,5300m),C1(23/10,5900m),C2(01/11,6300m),Smt(08-10/11)
Route Notes Teranishi - 25 Nov 80 BC on west shore of lake east of Duwo village. BC at 4700m on 1 Oct. Temp C1 snowhole at about 5300m not much used; used about 2 weeks, made on 10 Oct. Next camp at 5900m = C1 on 23 Oct Attack camp 1 Nov at 6300m on snow plateau. Route = North Face (new route), not French or British route Climbing route from BC south of lake and up west side of Duwa Glacier. Face not difficult but dangerous for 3 weeks in Oct. Most days couldn't climb because snow slabs and icefall. Fine weather 20 Oct onwards. Fukushima fell with snow 100m on 6 Oct and had to go to Pheriche "hospital" for recovery; Kato hit by ice serac and 2 weeks to recover. 7 Nov 1st summit attempt almost reached top but very strong wind. Tomita and Fukushima forced down but next day went again up and made summit on 8 Nov. Followed on 9th by Tsuboi and Kato and on 10th by Ogawa and Teranishi. Teranishi, Fukushima and Tsuboi now in KTM. Others in Khumbu and have Kusum Kangru permit to Dec 4. Shailendra Raj Sharma Tourism - 18 Nov 80 Success via North Face (1st North Face ascent) Fukushima 8 Nov Tomita 8 Nov Tsuboi 9 Nov Kato 9 Nov (leader) Ogawa 10 Nov Teranishi 10 Nov From C2 but details not know left BC 15 Nov. All are well. Kato - 17 Aug 80 North Face or NW Face. After reaching mountain will decide which route. North face is probably impossible; both new routes. New Zealand route is between these routes. BC north of Ama Dablam at 4500m; only one camp above BC: no sites above BC except at above 6000m. Leave KTM 15 Sept to Lukla and arrive BC 5-10 Oct. Thyangboche for 2 weeks acclimatization before BC; two to four weeks climbing [actually left KTM on foot on 16 Sept, no Lukla flights]. No Sherpas above BC Medical oxygen only
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route False
Standard Route -
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2449367
Year 1980
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) n face

Members

6 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Yasuji Kato M 1949 Japan Leader Kawasaki, Kanagawa, Japan Electronics engineer (designs color TV) Details Other expeditions
Hisao Fukushima M 1951 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Photographic shop (owned by father) Details Other expeditions
Tadao Tsuboi M 1957 Japan Climber Tokyo, Japan Carpenter Details Other expeditions
Masaaki Tomita M 1956 Japan Climber Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan Salesman of mountaineering equipment Details Other expeditions
Yoshifumi Teranishi M 1956 Japan Climber Sagamihara, Kanagawa, Japan Self defence army Details Other expeditions
Seiji Ogawa M 1953 Japan Climber Miura, Kanagawa, Japan Farmer Details Other expeditions

References

4 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD80302 AAJ Cheney, Michael J. - - 55:252 (1981) -
AMAD80302 JAC Fukushima, Hisao The North Face of Awa Dablam, 1980 - 76:124-129 (1981) -
AMAD80302 MM - - - 77:11 (Jan 1981) -
AMAD80302 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198125201/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-North-Face - - -