Ama Dablam | 1979 SW Ridge

A Austria expedition to Ama Dablam in 1979 via SW Ridge, led by Wolfgang Nairz. Summit reached on 24th October 1979. 5 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2121
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD79303
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1979
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Austria
Leaders Wolfgang Nairz
Sponsor Austrian Ama Dablam Expedition
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries Italy
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1979-10-22
Summit Date 1979-10-24
Summit Time -
Summit Days 2
Total Days 0
Termination Date -
Termination Reason 14
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to using most of equipment in assisting New Zealanders after fatal avalanche
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 5
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(22/10,4680m),ABC(26/10,5400m),xxx(24/10,6000m)
Route Notes Messner & Oelz - 7 Nov 79 Used up most of fixed ropes and some time in helping New Zealanders. Reached high point 6000m three times, first time 24 Oct going up in case New Zealanders were continuing up after accident and thus to help New Zealanders. All five reached this point at least once. Had thought Americans left lot of fixed rope last spring but found none - were on same route. No fixed camps above 5400m. Bobby Chettri - 25 Oct 79 Letter of 21 Oct from Nairz says BC to be established 22 Oct. Asks for Puma to SYB on 7 Nov to bring them back to KTM. Nairz, Messner & Oelz - 14 Oct 79 Route = same as 1st two ascents except in lower part will go to South Ridge from Mingbo. Alpine style, no Sherpas above BC unless Datti goes as member; maybe one camp. 2 weeks on mountain; have no more time.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448985
Year 1979
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

5 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Horst Bergmann M 1942 Austria Climber Lans, Tirol, Austria Owns & manages motor car body repair shop & cameraman Details Other expeditions
Maximilian-Horst Fankhauser M 1944 Austria Climber Neustift, Tirol, Austria Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Reinhold Messner M 1944 Italy Climber Villnoss, Bolzano, Italy Author, alpine guide & manager of mountaineering school Details Other expeditions
Wolfgang Nairz M 1944 Austria Leader Innsbruck, Tirol, Austria Staff member, Austrian Alpine Club Details Other expeditions
Oswald Oelz M 1943 Austria Climber Zurich, Switzerland Physician at Univ. Hospital Details Other expeditions

References

1 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD79303 MM - - - 71:14 (Jan 1980) -