Ama Dablam | 1979 N Ridge
A France expedition to Ama Dablam in 1979 via N Ridge, led by Raymond Renaud. Summit reached on 21st October 1979. 26 members recorded.
Expedition Details
| Field | Value |
|---|---|
| ID | 2120 |
| Imported | 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634 |
| Expedition ID | AMAD79301 |
| Peak ID | AMAD |
| Year | 1979 |
| Season | 3 |
| Host Country | 1 |
| Route 1 | N Ridge |
| Route 2 | - |
| Route 3 | - |
| Route 4 | - |
| Nationality | France |
| Leaders | Raymond Renaud |
| Sponsor | Expedition of the Guides of Briancon to the Himalaya-Ama Dablam |
| Success 1 | True |
| Success 2 | False |
| Success 3 | False |
| Success 4 | False |
| Ascent 1 | 5th-8th |
| Ascent 2 | - |
| Ascent 3 | - |
| Ascent 4 | - |
| Claimed | False |
| Disputed | False |
| Countries | - |
| Approach | Lukla->Khumbu Valley |
| Basecamp Date | 1979-09-25 |
| Summit Date | 1979-10-21 |
| Summit Time | - |
| Summit Days | 26 |
| Total Days | 30 |
| Termination Date | 1979-10-25 |
| Termination Reason | 1 |
| Termination Notes | - |
| High Point (m) | 6814 |
| Traverse | False |
| Ski | False |
| Paraglide | False |
| Camps | 3 |
| Fixed Rope (m) | 0 |
| Total Members | 23 |
| Summit Members | 13 |
| Member Deaths | 0 |
| Total Hired | 5 |
| Summit Hired | 3 |
| Hired Deaths | 0 |
| No Hired | False |
| O2 Used | False |
| O2 None | True |
| O2 Climb | False |
| O2 Descent | False |
| O2 Sleep | False |
| O2 Medical | False |
| O2 Taken | True |
| O2 Unknown | False |
| Other Summits | - |
| Campsites | BC(25/09,5100m),C1(01/10,5850m),C2(08/10,6000m),C3(15/10,6400m),Smt(21-24/10) |
| Route Notes | Renaud - 6 Nov 79 Summiters were as follows: 21 Oct Chand, GE Estienne, Y Estienne, Renaud, Salomez, Soleymieux, Manificat 22 Oct Norbu Jangbu, Jangbu, Lhakpa Norbu 23 Oct Chaud, M Drapier, Renaud, Audoubert, Belli, Charbonnel, Collot 24 Oct Renaud, Bovero, Charbonnel Route was North Ridge, route attempted in 1959 by British, same route except just above BC. Found same British rope and piton. Other BC was at 5100m; other camp, altitudes and all camp dates from Ministry of Tourism correct. BC on Dablam glacier northeast of mountain and C1 at Col. Difficult snow conditions: snow was loose and got new snow. Ridge difficult, but not dangerous. No accidents, no avalanching (on ridge). Mrs Ardisson, Mrs Drapier, J Reynaud, Segal and Mrs Soleymieux did not go above BC. Renaud - 16 Sept 79 One helicopter with 2 members flew to Lukla today and rest of members go to Lukla by helicopters tomorrow 2nd party leave France 1 Oct and arrive KTM 2 or 3 Oct. Leader will be Coudray if he can come after K2, or Dr. Magnificat (Makalu II summiter autumn 1978). Fly to Lukla - same route, on Ama Dablam as 1st group. Renaud will remain in Nepal for trekking party and Dhaulagiri I 1980 arrangements. Will be in Nepal until 2nd party has finished. Renaud & Segal - 3 Sept 79 Walking in to Khumbu when baggage arrives from Bangkok. Climbing route a North Ridge same as 1959 Autumn. BC above Dingboche Pangboche from west side to north at about 4600m+. 3 camps above BC. How much time on mountain not really known, depending on snow conditions, etc. Have 3 months food. 15-20 days probably BC. 5 Sherpas above BC. Oxygen for medical use. 1st expedition to Himalayas by guides for Briancon in 5 Alps 100 km from Grenoble. |
| Accidents | - |
| Achievement | - |
| Agency | - |
| Commercial Route | False |
| Standard Route | - |
| Primary Route | False |
| Primary Member | False |
| Primary Reference | - |
| Primary ID | - |
| Checksum | 2448982 |
| Year | 1979 |
| Summit Success | True |
| O2 Summary | None |
| Route (lowercase) | n ridge |
Members
26 recorded members.
| Name | Sex | Year of Birth | Citizenship | Status | Residence | Occupation | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Christiane Ardisson | F | 1946 | France | Member | Paris, France | Law student | Details Other expeditions |
| Francois Chaud | M | 1945 | France | Climber | Pelvoux, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Denis | M | 1920 | France | Climber | St. Gervais, Haute-Savoie, France | Elementary school teacher | Details Other expeditions |
| Annette Drapier | F | 1944 | France | Member | Grenoble, Isere, France | Secretary | Details Other expeditions |
| Michel Drapier | M | 1943 | France | Climber | Grenoble, Isere, France | Journalist | Details Other expeditions |
| Gerard Estienne | M | 1948 | France | Climber | Les Vigneaux, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Yvan Estienne | M | 1951 | France | Climber | Les Vigneaux, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Raymond Renaud | M | 1941 | France | Leader | La Salle-les-Alpes, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Joseph Reynaud | M | 1932 | France | Member | Abries, Hautes-Alpes, France | Electrical engineer; manager of electric-supply system in Hautes | Details Other expeditions |
| Marc Salomez | M | 1951 | France | Climber | Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Patrick Segal | M | 1947 | France | Member | Paris, France | Physiotherapist & writer | Details Other expeditions |
| Bruno Soleymieux | M | 1948 | France | Climber | La Grave, Hautes-Alpes, France | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Christiane Soleymieux | F | 1951 | France | Member | La Grave, Hautes-Alpes, France | Secretary | Details Other expeditions |
| Louis Audoubert | M | 1935 | France | Climber | Cazeres-sur-Garonne, Haute-Garonne, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Claude Belli | M | 1950 | France | Climber | Claix, Isere, France | Professor | Details Other expeditions |
| Daniel Bovero | M | 1945 | France | Climber | Le Pont-de-Claix, Isere, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Bernard Charbonnel | M | 1943 | France | Climber | Bellegarde, Loiret, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Daniel Collot | M | 1954 | France | Climber | St. Egreve, Isere, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean-Marie Flandin | M | 1948 | France | Climber | Briancon, Hautes-Alpes, France | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Pierre Jamet | M | 1933 | France | Climber | Brunoy, Essonne, France | Engineer & guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Jean Francois Manificat | M | 1950 | France | Leader | Grenoble, Isere, France | Physician | Details Other expeditions |
| Gilberte Maurel | F | 1953 | France | Climber | Toulouse, Haute-Garonne, France | Student | Details Other expeditions |
| Mario Paffumi | M | 1937 | France | Climber | Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France | Alpine guide | Details Other expeditions |
| Norbu Jangbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Jangbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | Details Other expeditions |
| Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa | M | - | Nepal | H-A Worker | Solukhumbu | - | Details Other expeditions |
References
3 recorded references.
| Expedition ID | Journal | Author | Title | Publisher | Citation | Yak 94 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| AMAD79301 | AAJ | Audoubert, Louis | - | - | 53:614-615 (1980) | - |
| AMAD79301 | MM | - | - | - | 71:14 (Jan 1980) | - |
| AMAD79301 | - | - | http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198061402/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-North-Ridge | - | - | - |