Ama Dablam | 1978 SW Ridge

A France expedition to Ama Dablam in 1978 via SW Ridge, led by Jean Clemenson. Summit reached on 20th October 1978. 9 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 2166
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD78301
Peak ID AMAD
Year 1978
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 SW Ridge
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality France
Leaders Jean Clemenson
Sponsor First French Expedition to Ama Dablam
Success 1 False
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Khumbu Valley
Basecamp Date 1978-10-01
Summit Date 1978-10-20
Summit Time -
Summit Days 19
Total Days 22
Termination Date 1978-10-23
Termination Reason 5
Termination Notes Abandoned at 6000m due to dangerous and difficult snow conditions
High Point (m) 6000
Traverse False
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 1
Fixed Rope (m) 1600
Total Members 8
Summit Members 0
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 5
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired False
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken True
O2 Unknown False
Other Summits -
Campsites BC(01/10,4950m),C1(11/10,5650m),xxx(20-21/10,6000m)
Route Notes Dufour & Lasserre - 27 Oct 78 Abandoned climbing 21 Oct; decided to stop on 21 and left BC 23 Oct Others arrive KTM ex-Lukla 28 Oct; leave 7 Nov. Reached 6000m, put 800m of ropes and took off 600m leaving only 200m and 1 ladder in difficult part. BC 4950m C1 5650m Highest point 6000m At C1 2m snow on the rock and in one day only 40m and 9 days to 6000m from C1; very deep, dangerous snow very unstable. Strategy was to put fixed ropes all the way and all to go to top; security was first priority: not to climb alpine-style; but with this snow, impossible to fix rope in this unstable loose snow and this impossible by Himalayan or alpine techniques. Clemenson on Pumori Spr 1975 and Dr. on French Everest 1974. Both had experienced Nepal Himalaya expeditions with deaths. If snow was hard, very easy because difficult rocks would be under snow. Found old ropes of 1961. 6000m reached on 20 Oct by Petrignet and Raphoz and by Dufour, Lasserre and Vincent on 21 Oct. Returned on 21 Oct to see what situation was and decide whether further progress possible. No accident, frostbite or illness. If monsoon very strong and late as now, possible - perhaps spring best. Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 Oct 78 Abandoned 18 Oct. Had made C1 but no information regarding C1's date and place; this highest camp. Very difficult route. Clemenson & Gerard - 13 Sept 78 2 arrived last March (11th) and 6 now on 25th. 2 stay here until 20th in KTM and then to Lukla with cargo. Climb via SW Ridge, same as 1961 BC about 5000m C1 on first step of ridge about 6000m C2 just before technically difficult rock towers about 6200m C3 just after 2 towers, move C1 to make C3 on icy flat area where in room for camp. All at BC by 1 Oct, summit by 21 Oct. Most difficult parts are rock towers and mixed ice and rock above. 5 Sherpas above BC Sirdar = Pemba Lama of Junbesi Oxygen only for medical use
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency -
Commercial Route True
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference -
Primary ID -
Checksum 2448615
Year 1978
Summit Success False
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) sw ridge

Members

9 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Jean Robert Clemenson M 1938 France Leader Argentiere, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Bernard Dufour M 1936 France Deputy Leader Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Philippe Gerard M 1950 France Climber Troyes, Val-de-Marne, France Professional photographer Details Other expeditions
Eric Lasserre M 1937 France Exp Doctor Chamonix, Haute-Savoie, France Physician Details Other expeditions
Guy Peters M 1944 France Climber Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerard Petrignet M 1953 France Climber Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Jean Raphoz M 1937 France Climber Les Houches, Haute-Savoie, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Gerard Vincent M 1949 France Climber Marseille, Bouches-du-Rhone, France Alpine guide Details Other expeditions
Pemba Lama M - Nepal Sirdar Junbesi, Solukhumbu - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD78301 AAJ Clemenson, Jean - - 53:269 (1979) -
AMAD78301 - - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197926902/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Attempt - - -