Ama Dablam | 2024 W Face (up), SW Ridge (down)

A Ukraine expedition to Ama Dablam in 2024 via W Face (up), SW Ridge (down), led by Nikita Balabanov. Summit reached on 1st November 2024. 2 members recorded.

Expedition Details

Field Value
ID 11427
Imported 2026-03-06 18:04:49.359634
Expedition ID AMAD24315
Peak ID AMAD
Year 2024
Season 3
Host Country 1
Route 1 W Face (up), SW Ridge (down)
Route 2 -
Route 3 -
Route 4 -
Nationality Ukraine
Leaders Nikita Balabanov
Sponsor Ukrainian Ama Dablam West Face Expedition 2024
Success 1 True
Success 2 False
Success 3 False
Success 4 False
Ascent 1 -
Ascent 2 -
Ascent 3 -
Ascent 4 -
Claimed False
Disputed False
Countries -
Approach Tumlingtar->Makalu->Amphu Laptsa->BC
Basecamp Date 2024-10-24
Summit Date 2024-11-01
Summit Time 1100
Summit Days 8
Total Days 10
Termination Date 2024-11-03
Termination Reason 1
Termination Notes -
High Point (m) 6814
Traverse True
Ski False
Paraglide False
Camps 4
Fixed Rope (m) 0
Total Members 2
Summit Members 2
Member Deaths 0
Total Hired 0
Summit Hired 0
Hired Deaths 0
No Hired True
O2 Used False
O2 None True
O2 Climb False
O2 Descent False
O2 Sleep False
O2 Medical False
O2 Taken False
O2 Unknown True
Other Summits -
Campsites BC,Biv1(28/10,6000m),Biv2(29/10,6200m),Biv3(30/10,6400m),Biv4(31/10,6750m),Smt(01/11)
Route Notes BC 24/10 4700m C1 28/10 6000m C2 29/10 6200m (on the shoulder) C3 30/10 6400m C4 31/10 6750m Smt 01/11 by Fomin and Balabanov at 11 am. Team was on Makalu for three weeks as they were attempting the West Face. However, due to the heavy snowfall in September they realised that they would not be acclimatised enough to attempt it. They reached C2 on the normal route on Makalu and then decided to go to the Khumbu and attempt the South Face of Ama Dablam. However, after checking it out they realised that it was too dry and they went to the West Face. C2 on the top of the shoulder with snow flutes which was the psychological crux as there was very little protection. After C3 they fixed some rope and climbed up the ramp. However, there was rockfall and they decided to take a rest and wait for the sun to set as it was safer. They reached their C4 at 10 pm after doing some mixed climbing. They set up their bivy where the face meets the NE Ridge between the seracs. On summit day, they set out at 9 am and reached the summit at 11 am. They stayed on the right side of the ridge which was easier than expected. It was about 40m up after having broken trail through the seracs. The last 50m were quite flat. They descended via the SW Ridge all the way to BC which they reached at 8 pm mainly due to the people. Left BC on 03/11 walking to Lukla.
Accidents -
Achievement -
Agency Seven Summit Treks
Commercial Route False
Standard Route False
Primary Route False
Primary Member False
Primary Reference False
Primary ID -
Checksum 2465925
Year 2024
Summit Success True
O2 Summary None
Route (lowercase) w face (up), sw ridge (down)

Members

2 recorded members.

Name Sex Year of Birth Citizenship Status Residence Occupation
Nikita (Mykyta) Balabanov M 1989 Ukraine Leader - - Details Other expeditions
Mikhail Fomin M 1981 Ukraine Climber - - Details Other expeditions

References

2 recorded references.

Expedition ID Journal Author Title Publisher Citation Yak 94
AMAD24315 - - https://explorersweb.com/ukrainians-attempting-new-route-on-ama-dablam/ - - -
AMAD24315 - - https://explorersweb.com/exclusive-ukrainians-on-their-new-route-up-ama-dablam/ - - -